Thursday, March 18, 2010

Jeans - Back

Yep, that flat felled center back seam was a chore.  It was nearly impossible to turn the fabric under where the seams came together, due to the narrow 5/8" seam allowance.  Making this a one inch seam has already been recorded on the pattern for the next pair.....

The Bernina, with it's size 18 jeans needle, handled the thicknesses well.  No skipped stitches.  No complaining.  It was wobbly, but due to operator error, not the machine.  I didn't mind that this seam sealing stitching wasn't parallel with the first row of stiching.  However, what I did mind was how the fabric wasn't turned under well at the yoke seam and at the curve.  So, I ripped the stitching out and used tweezers to remove the bits of topstitching thread that were stuck in the layers of denim.  Once the seam was cleared of debris, in an attempt to flatten the converging seams, I took a hammer to that area (where the presser foot is in the photo above).  I didn't manage to compress the seam, but was successful in compressing my index finger.  My advice:  skip the hammer.....

Next, I tried a very hot iron with billowing steam.  That helped.  That, and basting the yoke area and the curve.  I then sewed the seam again.  It is okay.  Not wonderful.  Okay.

Before stitching the back pockets, I took denim scraps and played with the various embroidery stitches on the Bernina.  I opted for straight lines for this first pair.  I can get fancy later.
There is a one inch seam allowance on each side and also on the upper waistband area.  Usually 5/8" seams are used.  Having one inch seams is a built-in safety net.  I may need the extra for fitting - or maybe not.  I will maintain one inch seam alllowances for this pattern as the next piece of denim I use will likely have a different amount of stretch than this one.

The front and back need to be sewn together and the waistband attached.  After that, the hems.  Oh, I almost forgot - the button and rivets.  The hammer.  I will be careful.  I promise.


  1. You jeans look good! I hope that they're comfortable!

  2. these jeans look really nice. Are these the My Label jeans? I own a Bernina and My Label too. Just getting started with My Label.

  3. These are shaping up well! I like the pocket detail. Can't wait to see how they turn out.

  4. Hello, Janice! Thanks for stopping by. I am using McCall's 5142 for this pair of jeans. I bought My Label last summer and have made a few tunics, several t-shirts and the tailored shirt. I love it! I got stuck on the pants-crotch length issues. Will try again soon.