Grainline Studio Scout Tee

I purchased the Grainline Studio Archer Button Up Shirt pattern eons ago. I even went so far as to print it out though the sheets never got taped together. Doesn't matter now as I need a smaller size and besides, it is just too hot to think of sewing (much less wearing) a long sleeved shirt. So, still wanting to try something from Grainline Studio, I choose the Scout Tee. It is designed for woven fabrics.

Length Adjustment

 
I knew when trying the pattern on my dress form that it needed to be a tad bit longer and I'd be happier with a longer sleeve. I added an inch to both and got on with putting it together. This sews up just as fast as a knit t-shirt. I had a late start and it was near midnight when I put the finished top on the dress form and saw that it was too big. Surprised, because I chose the size based on my bust measurement and was really expecting it to be too small, I just trimmed off the pattern pieces for the next size down and cut another Scout out of the same fabric. The fit of this one is what I was expecting.  I'm happy with the length tweak and the sleeves are still summer short but with coverage I'm comfortable wearing. A definite win.

Sleeve Length Adjustment

The only thing I did differently from the instructions is how I handled the bias neckline strip. First, I stitched the short ends of the strip together to form a ring, then folded it in half and matched the raw edges of the strip to the raw edge of the neckline. I stitched, trimmed and under stitched before sewing the binding down. I felt it was easier and looks nice too. Next time, I may cut the strip 1/2" wider, but maybe not as this is a clean finish. Wider might be clunky.

This fabric is a Marc by Marc Jacobs Normandy blue cotton ombré and has been in the stash for a long time. I'm pretty sure it came from FabricMart.com. Like most of my fabrics, I bought it not having a plan and, knowing me, must have been offered at a wonderful price. There is some leftover so back to the stash it goes...

In case you haven't noticed, my sewing of late consists of simple, easy to construct pieces. For tops, the fabric is the star. Give me a few months and this could change. Instant gratification or it isn't going to happen - no fancy details. Basic. Simple. Comfortable.

This pattern is destined to use up the smaller pieces hanging around and those silk and silk wanna-be types too.

I wish I had sewn this much, much sooner!

The Winter of Two Patterns

Fast forward several months and I’m still getting organized. Can you believe it? Simplify has become both my middle name and my mantra. I’ve tossed most of my old clothing. A few things I’ve been able to alter - but most? No, not worth the time or effort. Even though I don’t have many garments, my closet has nine boxes of fabric along with a floor to ceiling stack of neatly folded two to three yard lengths.

I have been sewing, just not blogging. The quality of my photos gets the blame. Usually it is late at night when I take pictures of my projects. I don’t know if it is the camera or the lighting (or both), but the photos are awful and I end up deleting them and then not blogging. I either need to find a decent lamp or a new camera…

Jalie 3245

This winter’s sewing focused on two patterns. One for tops, Jalie 3245, and the other for pants, Burda 2-2007-120.

Burda 2-2007-120

Why only two? Well, once home after working all day and fighting traffic (both coming and going), I often didn’t feel like tracing new patterns and wondering if I was going to end up with something wearable. With so few garments in the closet, I needed a sure bet and took the expedient route. Boring, utilitarian sewing with incredibly bad lighting (really, really bad!) produced enough business casual garments to get me through the winter.

The pants are straight forward, nothing fancy…just pants, but I like that back yoke seaming that meets the pocket seam on the side. For me, sewing a yoke seam is much easier than marking and sewing waist darts, especially with dark fabric and INCREDIBLY BAD LIGHTING. I didn’t include the cuffs. Sewn entirely on the machines.

The tops came together with whatever knit fabric I could extract from the stack without knocking it over. Some even came from the Fabriconda. Those were the most interesting as I had to combine fabrics to have enough to make make a top.

This cotton tunic is my escape from the Winter of Two Patterns. I bought the fabric at Super Textiles in Dallas. It is just down the road from the Golden D'or Fabric Outlet. Interesting place. Go there if you get a chance. Haven’t worn it yet as it is waiting for a pair of white Capri’s. The pattern is Burda 8918, and long OOP.

Burda 8918

I did my standard "add an inch to the neckline at the shoulder" maneuver. I also left off the ties and went with a narrow elastic loop and a button instead. I didn’t want to fiddle with a skinny bias loop. Simplify…

News? Well, DD#2 got married and it was a very happy wedding. Their new puppy even showed up! I ended up purchasing my MOB dress. I shopped for quality fabric, both online and off, that would be flattering and a good value and was unsuccessful. I think it would have helped had I had a definite style in mind. Anyway, no complaints. The purchased dress was kind to my budget and appropriate. Plus, it fit and I was comfortable the entire evening. A win all the way around.

Here we are at Easter:

What else? DD#1 graduated with her MBA. I’m so proud of her!

Will work on the lighting thingy…

The Jenny Shirt - Sleeves

Life got in the way last week and there has been no sewing. None. However, since my last posting, I was able to attach the cuffs to the sleeves and sew one of the sleeves to the shirt.

Back when I traced the pattern, I shortened the sleeve length by one inch because shortening sleeves by one inch has become my standard sleeve adjustment. Once I tried the shirt on, I realized I got it wrong, I’ll have to shorten the sleeves another 1 1/4”. For now, I folded the cuff to the right length – the cuff isn’t that narrow. That is also why the placket isn’t laying flat. Pins and folded fabric, what can I say?

Really, I should just cut new sleeves, plackets, and cuffs and start over. Yet, I won’t because this is a muslin. I’ll remove the cuffs, cut 1 ¼” off the bottom of each sleeve, gather and pleat until it matches the cuff. The plackets are plenty long enough to handle this treatment and since it is a woman’s shirt I think I can get away with a bit of gathering.

Once I get the sleeves in, there is hemming, buttons and buttonholes…say, another two weeks? Hah. Maybe more as the next few weeks promise more of the same time suck for my sewing time.

Style Arc Barb's Stretch Pant

I’ve also started another pair of pants using Style Arc's Barb's Stretch Pant. Just need to attach the waistband and hem. Though narrower, construction of the Barb is the same as the Linda - incredibly easy.

Oh, in a positive move toward finishing the quilt, I broke down and purchased another LaPeirre Studio Supreme Slider. Yes, you should be impressed…

In Progress: Style Arc’s Jenny Shirt

By now, you know that I am not a blogger who worries about how many yards I sew per month or keeps track of the dollars spent per garment. If I really cared, I suppose I could export a report from Quicken to Excel and break it down by notions, patterns, fabric, equipment, etc. Just know that I really do not care. This sewing thing is both my hobby and my wardrobe. Some people play golf or go to the movies. I sew. 

I buy fabric (mostly on clearance) and patterns (fewer and fewer of the Big 4 lately) that I think will flatter my body and sew it up. Happily, the vast majority of things I make become part of my wardrobe and the few that meet the bin are not mourned. I learn and I move on. One of my challenges is to sew a well-fitting classic shirt. I have sewn the shirt pattern from the Bernina software (Bernina My Label) a few times (here and here); the resulting shirts fit, and I’ve worn them a lot. However, since each of the Style Arc patterns I have sewn have worked so well I wanted to attempt a Style Arc shirt. I chose the Jenny Shirt.

Style Arc Jenny Shirt

 

I had cut this out shortly before (or right after???) moving into my apartment. Anyway, it has been passed over for several months and I finally got around to sewing on it about two weeks ago. The fabric is a $1.00/yd stretch cotton from FabricMart.com, and yes, I have several yards of this one and another similar stripe. You will be seeing it again.

After getting home from the office, I would sew for ten or fifteen minutes before deciding I didn’t like the lighting or I was too tired, etc. Given this pace, I project that it will be another two weeks before it is complete.
 

I wasn’t expecting how the front darts pull the side fronts to the bias. I like it!

Changes made to the pattern? I shortened the sleeves an inch and smoothed out the side seams at the waist. That extra at the waist might not be needed; I’ll wait until it is further along before I commit.
 

I wish I had made an effort to center the stripes on the back piece. When I cut this out, I probably was considering this an unwearable muslin and opted to conserve fabric. There isn’t a guarantee that the shirt will turn out nor do I want to spend time with the seam ripper, so I’m not looking back. Once I have a pattern that works, I’ll take more care. I do want to figure this shirt thing out. To that end, I’ve printed several tutorials that deal with specific parts of shirtmaking and have put them into a notebook. The plan is to update as I come across better techniques.

I guess it is time to start digging through my buttons. Hope I can find some that match.

Enjoy your week!

Fabriconda #6 – Style Arc Riva Raglan T-Shirt and the Jalie Scoopneck Top

Another lucky unused pattern, the Style Arc Riva Raglan T-Shirt, was chosen for the plaid knit from the Fabriconda. Like most of the Fabriconda fabrics, this one had lots of tape and tape residue. I cut all of that tape stuff away before starting. That way I knew exactly what I had to work with (barely just enough!).

Style Arc Riva Raglan T-Shirt

Looking at the pinned together pattern on the dress form, I could see that the neck was close fitting and the hem long. My only modification was to smooth out the side seams a bit for more room at the waist…

I wore it last week with my Burda Style 01-2010-136/Ottobre bird Capri’s and some cute sandals. The shirt fits nicely and I was comfortable. Enough said.

However, the Fabriconda has freed me up to try patterns that I’ve been hesitant to try. Testing a new pattern is often risky and for that reason alone, it has been well worth the $7.00 spent. After all, patterns aren’t much good if they don’t get used.

And yet the next top did not come from the Fabriconda.  This Fabric Mart ITY has been on the shelf for several months. With confidence from the success of the Jalie Raglan Tee, #3245, I went forward with the Jalie Scoopneck Top, #2806.

This is view B with the 3/4 sleeves from view A. The fit and comfort of this top is simply wonderful and the style is appropriate for office garb. I’m restraining myself from gathering every piece of knit fabric here and turning them into this top! Seriously, I so wish I had attempted this one a long time ago!

Jalie Scoopneck Tops #2806

Oh, the quilt has been calling my name…

Fabriconda #5 - Style Arc Island Ali Top

Two pieces of knit burnout from the Fabriconda came together to make this top. The blue piece had a huge circle cut from the middle and what was left was the perfect amount for the sleeves. Sadly, I didn't have enough of the grey to center the front properly (yes, I cut it after the back...). I also had to cut the lower back piece on the crosswise. Just know that I'm going to wear it anyway and the world will go on...

The wooly nylon thread came out of the drawer and I used it for the rolled hem on the sleeves. I really like how it allows the fabric to drape nicely.

Style Arc Island Ali Top Sewing Pattern

I hadn't sewn a top like this before, so before starting, I read the instructions (pretty basic but adequate) and had to look to the pattern pieces for the hem length and a few other things. As I've found typical with Style Arc knit top patterns, I had to shorten the neck binding (guessing worked). Other than that and the rolled hem for the sleeves, there weren't any other changes.

I will wear this with a pair of grey Capris I'd made a few months ago. This top is far from perfect but for a wearable muslin I'm pretty happy about it and I'll definitely sew it again! I think it would make a nice dress, too. Don't you?

Fabriconda #3 - Burda 08-2011-138

The Fabriconda bag had several small pieces of cotton fabric of similar weight. The fact that they did not coordinate was of no concern. I pulled out a TNT top pattern, Burda Style 08-2011-138, and had fun. I have sewn this pattern several times. This round the sleeve was shortened one inch. I have yet to make it with the back button closure, and wasn't interested in tackling it for this top.

Burda Style 08-2011-138

This selection of fabrics had many flaws and tape residue that had to be worked around. By combining the undamaged bits, there was just enough for my top.

To help pull together the disparate prints, I added a scrap of the floral to the center front neckband along with the tab and a button I found in the stash. Like the recent Jaile t-shirt and the Rachel Comey top, I had to sew pieces together to get fabric long enough for the pattern pieces.

Front

Back

I would not have deliberately planned for this combination of fabrics, but you know, I was amused and I believe it will pair nicely with my new black capris...

Fabriconda #2 - Vogue 1247

Well, I'd used my first version of this pattern testing and diagnosing the ailing serger. Not only was the polyester top a mess inside, but the fabric just felt icky. Being too short was the kicker and into the bin it went. I am not sorry.

Still curious about the pattern, I made a few changes and chose this cotton Samsung fabric from the Fabriconda. Tell me, is this the same Samsung that makes phones and TVs?

There were five or six small pieces of this print in the Golden D'or bag and that meant for some creative piecing. None were long enough to cut the back in one piece so I created a seam, matching the one on the front, and cut the fabric on the cross-wise grain. Although appreciated, the triangular bits on the front were eliminated as I deemed this print quite busy enough, thank you very much. The bottom front was cut cross-wise to match the back.

The pattern instructions call for French seams. I ignored that and used the serger. As far as I know, the French seam police are not out looking for me...Now, if I had used a silk or silk-like fabric, I would have had to sew French seams.

Exploiting a Tammyriffic standard, I altered the neckline. Take a look at the line drawing below. Doesn't that look awfully wide to you? It did to me so I took my faithful French curve to it.

Here is what I did to the back pattern piece:

While I was adjusting, I also fixed the length of the top:

Yes, I have wandered from Ms. Comey's design. It will be okay.

Jalie 3245 - The Raglan Tee

I have a lot of patterns. Some would say I have more than I could ever use and they would be right. Yet, that doesn’t prevent me from buying more. These days, I purchase most of them online and once in my possession, I scan the front and back of the envelopes and file them first by pattern company and then by number. I’ve turned the PDFs into my personal pattern catalog by grouping them together by categories: skirts, tops, dresses, etc. I keep the ones I want to make soon in a basket by the Bernina. Having those Golden D’or remnants got me to thinking about trying one that has been patiently waiting, Jalie 3245.

Jalie 3245

I took my measurements and a leap of faith and traced the size that matched. And, to give my faith a bit of insurance, I also compared it to my Style Arc Susan t-shirt pattern. It was spot on.

The fabric for this first t-shirt came from a Wal-Mart $1 or $2/yard cotton knit. There wasn’t enough length for the sleeves, so I quickly serged scraps on to make pieces that would work. I wouldn’t have thought to do that otherwise. I like it.

But, what I didn’t like was my bra straps at the edge of the neckline threatening to show every time I moved. Therefore, this second version has a neckline with one inch less exposure. It doesn’t change the look (can you even tell?) but makes me much more comfortable. I started with the top back of the sleeve (which is actually the neck) and, using the French curve, gradually added one inch to the top of the sleeve and the front neckline. The back stayed the same.

The orange stripe is a soft stretchy cotton from the Golden D’or bag. There was barely enough for the front and back and I didn’t even try to match the stripes though it doesn’t look bad. I want to say the grey and white knit was from a Fabric Mart bundle. Anyway, there is enough of it to make something else later.

I love this pattern and it has so much potential!

The eBay serger arrived. I chose this model at it was pretty close to the one I had. The tension disks are different and you don’t have to change the needle plate to do a rolled hem, but other than that they are very similar. It wasn’t used much at all but will have its chance!

Have a wonderful week!

One Step Forward...

Once home, I made quick work of getting those Golden D'or Fabric Outlet pieces inspected and washed. After serious culling, the remaining fabrics are worth the seven dollars paid. The picture above is a sampling. Don't know that I would do that again, but it was amusing to see what was in that bag!

Before the Dallas trip, I completed a pair of capris (Ottobre Woman Every-Woman's Pants 05-2008-16), the Classic Flares (Ottobre Woman 02-2013-20) and a pair of cropped pants using Burda 7068. They were all made from the same $1.99/yd black windowpane cotton fabric purchased from FabricMart.com. Same fabric, same thread and so I couldn't help but put them together assembly line style. Did it save any time? Maybe yes, maybe no. But it was satisfying when I had three new garments all at once. I didn't take photos mainly because details on black fabric do not show up well and besides, nothing you haven't seen me make before. Just pants.

Soon after the assembly line ended, I started the Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey top and was pleased that I'd pinned the pattern to the dress form before cutting the fabric. The top would have been way too large had I gone with the size that matched my measurements. I chose a less-than-wonderful floral polyester and all went well until I went to overlock. The usually dependable Kenmore was skipping stitches and I blamed it on the polyester. I switched out needle sizes and types and unthreaded and rethreaded the machine. It didn't help. Finally, I removed all thread and rotated the hand wheel. Yep, sure enough, the looper was hitting the back of the needle plate. It wasn't loose nor did it look odd. I removed the plate and laid it flat on the table. Flat? Shouldn't it be flat? Nope, it was like a rocking chair...

See that triangular piece on the right of the needle plate? It was bent. I took pliers to it and that corrected the skipped stitches. No clue as to how it got bent. Not trusting it to remain flat, I bought a replacement from eBay, swapped them out and the the machine stitches like new. Now, in my panic before I determined the problem was the needle plate, I overreacted and there is a similar model (via eBay) on its way.

The quilt? It is resting as:

• I ripped the Supreme Slider by catching it on the needle when removing it from the Bernina. I'm hoping I can find some type of tape that will keep me from having to buy another one anytime soon - any ideas? I also somehow managed to stitch through it.

• I quilted to the edge of a panel where I should have left a seam allowance. Yes, I have some unstitching to do and I'm not happy about it...

 

In other news, DD #1 gifted me some Robert Kaufman fat quarters from the Passage to India collection. I love the prints and was able to find more online. I'm in no hurry to decide what these fabrics will become. Aren't they beautiful?

Burda Plus 01-2013-433

I’m still working on the third panel of the quilt. I chuckle and chortle every time I unfold the panels to inspect my silliness! Nothing planned – just whatever I feel like stitching at the moment. Anyway, that last panel will be finished soon enough and then the next challenge will be uniting them. For some reason I worry that they won’t match up. I know it is illogical as each and every block was squared up.

Burda Plus 01-2013-433

So, taking a break from the quilt, I stitched up a woven t-shirt/tunic. This one is 433 from the Burda Plus Spring/Summer 2013 magazine. I used a silk/cotton blend that I’ve had for a few years. I want to say that it came from Fabric Mart, but I'm not really sure...

After pinning the pattern pieces together to check the fit on the dress form, I modified the too-wide-for-me neckline. Brought it in about an inch at the shoulders. And, to compensate for the smaller opening, dropped the center front about an inch or so. Don't know that it was really necessary, but that is what I did.

The length of the t-shirt/tunic was shortened as my intent was to sew a top and not a dress. The only other change was to the binding. The coverstitch machine did not want to bind over seams. The outside of the stitched binding looked fine, but flip it over and you can see that it produced loops, not completed stitches over the seamed areas. After a few tries, I surrendered and instead folded the bias strips in half and sewed them onto the neckline and the bottom of the sleeves using a ¼” seam allowance. Then, to finish, I serged and edge-stitched. If I hadn’t been in a hurry, I probably could have sorted it out. Maybe it was the needle. Maybe it was the tension or perhaps the fabric itself. Who knows?  Who cares? It worked.

Neckline Finish

Sleeve Finish

You can bet this pattern will be used again. Perfect for anything light and drapey in the stash. Oh, wait. That is what Burda recommends…