Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Tammy and the Single-Welt Pocket

This is the newest project to come from our roll of denim. Behold the beauty of my first welt pocket.

Burda Style 05-2010-130

Besides modifying the number of welt pockets, there were other changes made from the original pattern. The most obvious being the zipper fly; it opens on the other side. I topstitched wherever I felt like it. Nope, not gonna have have to worry about dry rot in that cone of topstitching thread…The extended waistband tab was eliminated. Though it is a nice design feature, I felt it would add too much bulk, especially when constructed from denim and a belt added.

Everything was sewn on the machine – no handwork at all. I like that! I got to use the rivet press again and attached rivets to the front pockets.

Out of all of the welt pocket resources I found (and there isn’t a shortage out there - just look), I chose the information from my Palmer/Pletsch Pants for Real People book. At first, it was because the instructions have the inside pocket pieces long enough to be sewn into the waist seam and the dimensions for the various pieces were provided. That meant I didn’t have to do any math and could concentrate on the technique. However, it was the step-by-step “holdin’ my hand all the way” method got my attention.

With a total of two welt pockets to my name (the practice one and the real one), I’ve learned that making a welt pocket isn’t difficult, but it is time consuming. I just followed the instructions and it worked! The illustrations make it clear what needs to be done and the text is easy to interpret. I was lucky and found my copy at a thrift store. I think I paid a dollar for it. However, even at full retail, it is worth having as it contains a wealth of practical information.

Practice Single-Welt Pocket

Besides thrift stores, I have also purchased used sewing books online. For instance, the Vogue Sewing book (pictured in my last post) came from Amazon.com for $.01; shipping was $3.99. I’ve had only one bad online experience - a much wanted sewing book arrived smelling like cat urine. It was promptly returned.

Working on this skirt, I've not only learned how to sew a single-welt pocket but I also credit it for improving my future bar tacking skills.

I had a "duh" moment while stitching the buttonhole onto waistband. For as long as I've had the Bernina, I have been using a narrow zigzag stitch to secure fly shields, attach belt loops, etc. and I have been less than thrilled with the results. My bar tacks look messy, even with careful marking and stitching. Why couldn’t I just use the same stitch that the Bernina uses for buttonholes? After all, it is a clean, tight zigzag; just what I need for a bar tack. I couldn't come up with a good reason not to use it, other than the Bernina Buttonhole Police might come after me…

I don’t know what you have to do to get ready to sew a buttonhole on your machine, but on mine, you attach the buttonhole presser foot, put the bobbin thread through the finger of the bobbin case, adjust the stitch length and switch the buttonhole knob to position 1. This makes a great stitch for bar tacking. I wish I had thought of this sooner. Anyway, my bar tacks should start looking better.

Burda Style 12-2009-123

Burda Style 12-2009-116

What’s coming next from the denim roll? DD#1 has asked for a version of the Burda Style 12-2009-123 flounced “Snowflake” skirt. The denim has been cut and I will start on it today. I have also sewn some cropped denim pants, using modified Burda Style 12-2009-115/116, for myself.

Those Burda's are finally earning their keep.


  1. Gosh you made SUCH a good job of that welt pocket and the bar tacks on the front are lovely. That skirt looks great! Really great! So great I might have to make it again.

  2. Fabulous pocket!! Welts scare the devil out of me. The skirt looks great and fits really well. Fine work!

  3. I can NOT believe that is your first welt pocket. You are my hero!!

    What a great skirt... in fact, all your denim stuff is great. I'm very impressed.

    Lovely bartacks as well (my SuperCheap Brother uses the same stitch as the buttonhole to do bar tacks- it's one of the few features I actually like about it).

  4. Very nice welt pocket, and very nice skirt! thanks for the tip on bar tacking, I hadn't thought of using the buttonhole stitch, that's a great idea.

  5. Well done, doesn't it feel good to make your first (two) welt(s)? I kind of avoid them because of the time factor, but after doing ten or so yesterday I can make them without reading the instructions and it goes faster...