Monday, August 2, 2010

Sommermode Modell 5 - Muslin

Here is the Sommermode t-shirt muslin. Because it is a muslin, I went ahead and sewed those questionable bust darts – just so I would know what I was dealing with. I chortled and blubbered when I tried it on. The darts were not at my bust, but mid-way between my bust and my waist. Not my best look and obviously the first thing to fix. I removed the darts and replaced them with gathers at the side seams.
The easiest revamp would be to raise the darts, but then I still have t-shirt darts. I don't want t-shirt darts. To make them go away they have to be moved.  As I don’t want the shoulders, armholes or center front messed with, my remaining options are limited to the gathered neckband area and the hemline.
I made a few copies of the 1/4 scale front bodice sloper template and experimented. The template is from Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method. Norma R. Hollen wrote it and I have had it since the late 70’s.
The width of the front is increased if the bust darts are moved to the hemline (left). However, moving them to the existing gathers at the center front neckband would not add fullness to the body of the shirt (right). I'm thinking that my best bet is to move the darts to the center front neckband – after raising them first.

The shoulders are a bit wide (though not bad), the armscye is too low and I don’t have full motion of my arms while wearing the muslin. Should I try the next size down? Doing so would solve the dart problem, as the other sizes of this pattern do not include a bust dart. In addition, maybe the armscye would fit me better. Of course, I would need the extra girth provided by size 46/48 to accommodate my ample mid-section.

This style is similar to the Clash t-shirts. Yet, it could serve as another basic for me to wear with jeans or dress pants. For that reason, I will produce another muslin. Yep. Using up those stored fabrics. Bye, bye fabrics. Bye, bye.

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