Tammy and the Growing T-Shirt

What with the new job and the heat, I haven’t felt much like sewing this week. Still, I was able to put this t-shirt together. The pattern is Simplicity 3571, view A. I shortened the sleeve and also lowered the center front neckline about an inch and a half.

The fabric is a matte jersey from FabricMart.com. Being only $3/yd., I wasn’t expecting much but neither the serger nor the coverstitch wanted anything to do with it. To deal with the skipped and loose stitches, I changed out needle types and sizes, trying out everything in the drawer. Absolutely no improvement in stitch quality came of my attempts, even with tension adjustments thrown in. I finally just sewed the thing up and didn’t look back.

Once completed, I took it to the laundry room for a visit with the steamer. Before my eyes, as soon as the steam met the fabric, the shirt began to grow! I’d never seen that happen before. Have you? The bottom of the armhole is now well on its way to the waist. I’m going to leave it on the dress form for a few days just to see what happens. Maybe it’s gonna turn into a dress…

In other news, I finally bought myself a cutting mat - the big one that they have at JoAnn’s. I used a half-off coupon so it was really quite reasonable. I knew from measuring my little fold-out cutting table that the mat was going to be too long but that didn’t stop me from getting it anyway. I used it, full-length hanging over the edges of the table, to cut out this t-shirt. It didn’t work very well and half-way through I took the scissors to the mat. I know, I was shocked too at my treatment of the brand new mat, though it was the right thing to do. It is now the perfect length and might just fit between the filing cabinet and the wall when I’m not using it.

Yeah, it has been an odd week…

Simplicity 5517 Jeans - Completed

When I started this project, I really wasn’t expecting any difficulties. After all, this wasn’t my first pair of jeans and DD#1 hadn’t run backwards when I suggested modifying the high-waisted 70’s pattern.  The changes were made easily enough and corrected the obvious fitting and style issues. So, I was stunned when I encountered the waistband problems. Frustrating, but nothing that a break and some good advice couldn't cure.

I think they turned out great. I appreciate that everything is sewn on the machine and the only handwork (button and rivets) is done with a hammer!

Everywhere I go, I now catch myself studying the details on jeans. I can’t help it. Pocket shape and placement, topstitching, embroidery, etc. It is all interesting and I stare. At home, while doing laundry, I’ll turn a pair inside out to see how they are put together. I’ve noticed that on some of our jeans the front crotch seam below the zipper is flat-felled. I haven’t been able to figure out how to make that happen with the way I sew in the zippers. A flat-felled seam would be sturdier...

By the way, I love this 12 ounce ring-spun denim.

My Burda Style Capris are almost finished and I hope to have some photos soon.

Like Butter…

Mary Nanna was so right! I put a Schmetz Jeans/Denim size 16 needle in the Bernina and that was the solution to the topstitching. Those denim needles have been in the drawer but I’ve been reluctant to use them as they cost more than regular needles.  So, the object lesson for today:

Being stingy is not going to work when it comes to topstitching denim

I am grateful that it isn’t a machine issue and I wish all of life’s problems were solved so easily…

Tomorrow, DD#1 will model her new jeans for us.

Encouraged, I cut out the Burda 01-2010-136 jeans. With the weather getting warmer, I decided they needed to be capri length.

Ma’am, Step Away From the Jeans

Here is the first pair of jeans from the roll. And yes, they are incomplete.

All of the changes that were made to the original pattern, Simplicity 5517, worked until I got to the waistband. When DD #1 tried the jeans on, the center fronts of the band wouldn't match up. It was simply too small. The muslin had fit nicely. Discouraged, I let the jeans sit for a few days.

I finally asked her to try them on again and I made a new pattern piece. While making changes, I also trimmed ¼” off the top so the finished width is 1 5/8”. It fits and looks great on her.

However, topstitching that band has defeated me. Twice. The Bernina isn’t appreciative of the numerous layers on the front. Right where the zipper is, the feed dogs refuse to continue, even with encouragement and coaxing from the hand-wheel. The jeans have been set aside. Again.

I am confused as that machine plows through everything. And, there isn’t anything different with this pair...the denim isn’t any heavier, nor have I used a heavier interfacing. Same machine, same needles, same thread…

I’ll try again tomorrow.

Simplicity 5517 - Trouser Jeans Muslin

DD#1 has been shopping for a pair of trouser jeans. There isn’t a shortage at La Cantera, but none are fitting the way she wants them to.  I offered to sew her a pair and found this 70’s wannabe western wear pattern, Simplicity 5517.  I’m not sure of the date as it is missing from the battered envelope, but I’m thinking early 70’s – maybe 1973 or 1974?

Anyway, the most important feature of this pattern is the leg because it is exactly what she has been looking for. I altered the pattern to fit and to incorporate the styling she wants. Changes to the pattern (so far) include:

• Waist lowered one inch

• Zipper fly extension added to the center front
• Small wedge inserted at back crotch near the inseam
• Leg lengthened by three inches
• Back pockets added

I borrowed the back pocket pattern from the one I'd made for her Burda 6006 Anita jeans and guessed as to placement. It was easier to draw in the pockets on the muslin rather than sewing them on.

DD#1 ordered denim from SAFE Denim (American Cotton Growers) and the thirty yard roll arrived today. The website offers several types of denim and it only took a few days for it to arrive. This roll is 12 oz. ring spun, 100% cotton and the price, at $7.15/yd, is reasonable considering that it is 67" wide.

In other news, last week I attached the rivets and button to my Simplicity 7581 jeans. This time, the rivets went on without a hitch and not one was wasted. So, I guess that makes up for last time when more were ruined than attached...

I’ve worn my new jeans and I don’t love them. Well, the problem is the back crotch length near the inseam – it needs to be just a little bit longer. That wasn’t obvious with the muslin nor during construction and it has me wondering why.

The jeans are wearable, but I definitely want to correct the pattern before I sew it again. Everything else seems to be fine but I will wear them a few more times before altering the pattern, just in case there are any other issues.

By the way, the front pocket pieces on this pattern are just like RTW and for me that is reason enough to hunt down this old pattern. I will be copying those front pocket pieces to use with other jeans patterns.

The day I'd worn the new jeans, I'd met DD#1 for a very casual lunch at Chipolte. In the parking lot on the way out, she took a quick photo of the front: 

I’ve put together another muslin of Burda 01-2010-136, this time in size 44. The size 46 was simply too big. The 44 fits and I want to sew it up before I revisit the Simplicity pattern.

I feel like I've been to jeans sewing school but with 30 yards of denim, I think I'm just getting started...

Simplicity 7581 – Jeans Update

My new jeans are almost finished - they lack only the waist button and the obligatory rivets. Seems like forever since I began this project.  And yet, four jeans muslins were not enough. I tried on the size 18 muslin before I cut my fabric and decided I wanted some changes to the pattern. It finally hit me that I should just try the next smaller size.  Yes, yet another muslin! It was a good call because it really was more flattering.  So, I ended up cutting a 16 and the only modification was to the length.

I’m willing to go through these muslins as my goal it is have a handful of classic patterns that I can depend upon.  I want two styles of jeans patterns: this one (higher waist/slight boot cut leg) and another with a bit lower waist/slightly looser fit.

It took four machines to put the jeans together. I loaded the Bernina with navy cotton thread and used it to sew all of the seams. The serger took care of cleaning the edges and the coverstitch made the belt loops. I didn’t bother to press under the fabric strip before sending it through the folder and the denim fed without any problems.

The Singer 403A was utilized for topstitching. About time, right? I threaded the needle with khaki topstitching thread and more of the navy cotton for the bobbin. As expected, I had to adjust the pressure and the tension for the denim. I don’t have a “stitch in a ditch” foot for it (though one is now on the way via eBay) so the topstitching is wobbly. I knew it wasn’t perfect while I was stitching but the machine amused me and I just didn’t care.

The top edge of the pocket topstitching came from fashion disk #7, Icicle.  My instinct was to sew this embroidery pattern (and others too!) all over these jeans. You should be impressed that I exercised great control. Yep, minimal embroidery – I can actually wear these in public!

But bigger than messy topstitching and embroidery restraint, I finally attached the Singer Professional Buttonholer to the 403A and produced good-looking buttonholes! I had purchased the buttonholer back in November and had not taken time to work with it. I thought this project was the perfect opportunity. After all, it is only one buttonhole…

It took some time and I actually read the little booklet and cleaned/lubricated it before getting started with samples.  No, it’s not as quick as turning a few knobs, but you end up with a beautifully made buttonhole that will be consistent with as many as you wish to make.  So, this addition takes care of the bulk of my buttonhole woes. Reliable buttonhole spacing is next on my “to be conquered” list.

Have a wonderful week!

Pattern Auditions - Jeans

Well, it started from wanting to test the Schnittvision, volume 7, pants pattern and has turned into searching for a classic jeans pattern.

My detour occurred innocently enough. I didn’t have a stretch fabric that was appropriate for the Schnittvision pants so I chose to try the jeans instead. And then, being curious, I decided to compare the pattern to BML's version.

Entering identical measurements, I came away with two very different jeans patterns. They both fit. Nevertheless, the BML muslin has a “mom” jeans vibe and though the Schnittvision jeans are more stylish, I want the legs to be looser. Easy to remedy by reprinting the pattern with larger thigh/knee measurements or by simply redrawing the leg seams on the existing pattern. 

Both patterns can be corrected so they would work for me – I just don’t want to. While trying these patterns, I also put together a muslin of Simplicity 7581, view C (the one on the left). I found this bootcut jeans pattern, circa 1997, on eBay. Granted, it is ancient. But, other than taking in the side seams a bit at the hips (I cut a size 18) and shortening the leg, the muslin fits and better yet, it looks right.

I’m not stopping at Simplicity 7581. No, no…In a spirit of generosity, I’m also giving my Burda magazines a rare opportunity and have traced (can you believe it?) 01-2010-136, minus the front inner leg patch piece.

BurdaStyle 01-2010-136



The zippers and topstitching thread have arrived and I even made a trip to JoAnn’s and bought a piece of denim. I’m not thrilled with JoAnn’s denim offerings. Just sayin’.

Simplicity 2852/3634 – Fuchsia Frankenpattern Top

To come up with this top, I started with Simplicity 2852, view B.  I kept the sleeve cap but borrowed the rest of the sleeve from my holiday cowl top pattern, Simplicity 3634.  Two inches were removed from the hem to convert it from a tunic. I also lowered the neckline on the front yoke by two inches while raising it a half inch on the back.

I had planned to sew some pin tucks on the front yoke and add some pockets into the side seams with tabs and buttons. However, once I started handling the fabric I immediately minimized the details. The fabric is a micro-suede knit from Fabric.com.  Sticky. Well, the iron wouldn’t slide over it. I resorted to blasts of steam, which actually worked quite well. The serger didn’t appreciate the fabric either, but fresh needles (Schmetz stretch, size 14) made a huge difference - no more skipped stitches. The Bernina and the coverstitch were fine. No complaints whatsoever.

So, a simple top to wear with jeans and those black pants I made last week.  The color is great, but I’m happy there isn’t more of this fabric in the stash…

Holiday Cardigan - A Frankenpattern

There was just enough of the paisley stretch velvet leftover from the cowl top (Simplicity 3634) to make a cardigan.  I wanted to try the cardigan from that pattern, but there is a seam at the center back and I didn’t want to break up the large print any more than necessary.

I’ve enjoyed wearing the cardigans that I had made from Simplicity 2474.  They are very comfortable and the pattern goes together so quickly that I decided to use it for my holiday cardigan.  However, I felt that a long sleeve would be more appropriate for the fabric.  To guarantee that the sleeve would fit, I kept the sleeve cap but borrowed the bottom sleeve portion from the Simplicity 3634 cardigan sleeve. It worked just fine and I am tickled!

The tank dress is from Chico’s.  I’ve had it for years and it really pairs well with anything – summer or winter.

DD#2 will be home in a few days.  She wants me to make her a dress.  The Burda’s will get another chance…

Holiday Top - Simplicity 3634, View B

I bought this paisley stretch velvet from Fabric Mart last December. With the large print, I knew my garment design needed to be basic.  I considered sewing another cowl top like the one I had made at the beginning of November (Vogue 8634), but I haven’t actually worn it yet.  Each time I put it on, I change before leaving the house.  The low neckline just isn’t working for me.  Really, it is modest enough, but if I am uncomfortable, I'm not going to wear it.  So, in searching for another cowl top pattern, I found Simplicity 3634. It is OOP but still available on the Simplicity website.

Before cutting the fabric, I compared the necklines.  The center front neckline on the Simplicity pattern is about three inches higher than the Vogue neckline.  Better, much better! I cut a size 20W except for 22W side seams and shortened the sleeve length an inch, but uncharacteristically, did not lengthen the hem. This top went together quickly and it is partially due to my becoming more at ease with the coverstitch machine. I really appreciate being able to sew stretchy, nice looking hems on knits. Why did I wait so long?

There is still a large piece of the stretch velvet left.  I probably should make something else while the machines are still loaded with black thread...

HP Weekender Sunshine Top - The Frankenpattern Version

My plan was to take the leftover fabric from the purple Simplicity 2288 cardigan and make a sleeveless shell.  However, when I laid the fabric out on the cutting table, I saw that there was enough to make a top with sleeves.  I quickly switched gears and pulled the HP Weekender Sunshine Tops pattern from the file.

I really like the neckband on the Simplicity 2598 sleeveless top that I made last week – so much that I combined the neckbands from these two patterns.  I had made changes to the Sunshine neckband pieces when I had made it back in July.  Starting fresh, I traced new neckband pieces, matching them (CF/CB and shoulders) with the Simplicity neckband pieces and then traced my new pattern pieces.  This added close to an inch to the upper edge of the neckband – still feminine but with a more modest, and therefore more wearable, neckline than the original pattern.  By the way, I used a knit interfacing for the neckband and, of course, coverstitched the hems.

The Sunshine pattern offers two sleeve choices: none or a short cap sleeve.  Since I wanted a top appropriate for the season, I borrowed my Bernina My Label t-shirt sleeve pattern and merged it with the Sunshine cap sleeve to create the ¾-length sleeve pattern.

I am delighted with my Sunshine Frankenpattern.  Moreover, the new top is wonderful – it fits!

Another Simplicity 2474 Cardigan

I had a business meeting this afternoon. It wasn’t necessary to show up wearing a suit and high heels, but blue jeans were out. Assessing my dwindling wardrobe (recently, I’ve been tossing many of my clothes for one reason or another), I knew that a desperate visit to Chico’s, Dillard’s, etc. was going to be happening. However, I also knew that driving to Retail Land would be futile because nothing ever fits. Instead, I chose to give the serger and the newbie coverstitch an opportunity to impress. It was a good decision.

The quickest way to a new outfit was to make a cardigan to match the black and white top (Simplicity 2598) I had made on Sunday. I used the same cardigan pattern, Simplicity 2474, that I had for my Tammyriffic Twinset. It took me about two hours from taking the rotary cutter to the fabric (by the way – I love the pattern weights!) to placing the finished cardigan on the dress form. Black pants completed my outfit.



I am finally getting to where it is quicker and less frustrating to sew a TNT garment than to visit a retail store. Now, don’t get me wrong. I love to shop. The problem is finding something that will fit. I am not sewing for budget, political or creative reasons. I sew because I want clothing that fits and sewing is the easiest way to make that happen.

And, even though I need a challenge, it appears that I will be continuing on this path of instant gratification sewing. Mama needs clothes! There is a piece of the purple knit leftover from Sunday's Simplicity 2288 cardigan so I will  be making a coordinating top to go with it.

Sadly, my jean jacket project is going to be delayed. I received an email from Fabric.com saying that the denim (clearance @ $3.99/yard) I had ordered is sold out.  There is a mid-weight denim in the stash, but I really want a heavier denim.  I’ll choose something else; it just won’t be the bargain I had planned.

Summer is Over...

The temperatures here in Texas have finally dropped. Enough that there are serious gaps in what I have to wear and I hastily put three garments together. First, I made the Vogue 8634 cowl neck top. You may recognize the fabric as the same $1.95/yard Lycra knit that I had used back in August for the Lena Sommermode top. Granted, this is some odd fabric but it was ideal for testing the pattern.

I made view B, Xlg (20-22), borrowing the long sleeves from view C.  And, as usual, I added to the hem (2") and shortened the sleeves (2”). I also eliminated the front horizontal seam by pinning the upper and lower front pattern pieces together.  To secure the cowl, I edge-stitched along the neck seam using the coverstitch.  The top went together very quickly and I will be making it again using a more subdued fabric.  This style would be great to wear under a vest or jacket.

Next, I made a cardigan and a sleeveless top.  For the top, I used Simplicity 2598, view E. The cardi-wrap is the star of this pattern and the top, I suspect, is really an “oh, by the way” afterthought.  I just cannot bring myself to sew the cardi.  To me, those pointy cardi-wrap tails are begging to get caught in the car door, or worse - a public toilet!

The fabric is a stretch polyester knit that I purchased several months ago from Farbic Mart.  I cut a size 18W-20W with 22W-24W side seams and added 1” to the hem. 

Needing to wear the top in a few hours, I didn’t use the coverstitch binder to finish the armhole edges. This fabric curled as soon as it was cut and I simply didn’t have time to experiment. Instead, I sewed clear elastic in the armhole seam allowance, folded the seam allowance over and coverstitched.  It worked! The elastic will keep the armhole from stretching out of shape. I also sewed clear elastic into the shoulder seams.

For the cardigan, I used Simplicity 2288, view A.  This fabric also came from Fabric Mart. I made a size 20, using size 22 side seams and skipped the pleated ruffle trim.  I didn’t shorten the sleeves as they look a bit short on the envelope model.  It ended up being the correct sleeve length for me. 

The neatly stacked pieces of the 1952 dress are patiently waiting next to the Bernina. I am still working on the shoulder pads. There isn’t a pending occasion/looming deadline for the dress though I’m sure that locating the right belt buckle will improve my motivation.

I purchased some denim and a few knit pieces from Fabric.com a few days ago. I want to sew another jean jacket, this time actually using denim. And, after these easy projects, I could use something a bit more complicated. However, my goal is to complete the 1952 dress before I tackle the jean jacket.

Enjoy your week!