Pattern Auditions - Jeans

Well, it started from wanting to test the Schnittvision, volume 7, pants pattern and has turned into searching for a classic jeans pattern.

My detour occurred innocently enough. I didn’t have a stretch fabric that was appropriate for the Schnittvision pants so I chose to try the jeans instead. And then, being curious, I decided to compare the pattern to BML's version.

Entering identical measurements, I came away with two very different jeans patterns. They both fit. Nevertheless, the BML muslin has a “mom” jeans vibe and though the Schnittvision jeans are more stylish, I want the legs to be looser. Easy to remedy by reprinting the pattern with larger thigh/knee measurements or by simply redrawing the leg seams on the existing pattern. 

Both patterns can be corrected so they would work for me – I just don’t want to. While trying these patterns, I also put together a muslin of Simplicity 7581, view C (the one on the left). I found this bootcut jeans pattern, circa 1997, on eBay. Granted, it is ancient. But, other than taking in the side seams a bit at the hips (I cut a size 18) and shortening the leg, the muslin fits and better yet, it looks right.

I’m not stopping at Simplicity 7581. No, no…In a spirit of generosity, I’m also giving my Burda magazines a rare opportunity and have traced (can you believe it?) 01-2010-136, minus the front inner leg patch piece.

BurdaStyle 01-2010-136



The zippers and topstitching thread have arrived and I even made a trip to JoAnn’s and bought a piece of denim. I’m not thrilled with JoAnn’s denim offerings. Just sayin’.

Sewing Muslins for Jeans - Schnittvision and BML

Since I haven’t found a stretch fabric I’m willing to sacrifice for the Schnittvision pants muslin, I went and printed the Schnittvision jeans pattern included in volume 7 and sewed a muslin.  I basted a zipper into the center front so I would have an easier time evaluating. The fit isn’t too far off, however I’m having to add to the front and back inseams at the crotch. The legs are a bit snug so I sewed a 3/8” seam instead of 5/8”. That took care of that, though I prefer a slight boot cut leg and will be adjusting the pattern from the knee down. I used non-stretch cotton for my muslin. Had I used a stretch fabric, I don’t think any adjustments would be needed.

I’m getting my jeans pattern ready even though the denim won’t be here for a few weeks. Topstitching thread and brass zippers, from Atlanta Thread, should be here tomorrow. I also need to place an order for rivets.  Just need to decide which ones I want.



BML Five Pocket Jeans

Not having had enough of taping sheets of printer paper together, I’ve also printed the pattern for the Bernina My Label jeans.  Hmm...doesn't something seem off with those back pockets?

Once the BML muslin is complete, I’ll compare the two and decide which pattern works best and then go from there.

McCall’s 5239, View B – Classic Fit Pants

I’m eager to sew the Schnittvision pants, but from prior experience I know my chances of success are enhanced if I first compare an untested pattern to one that fits. So, with that in mind, I pulled out view B of McCall’s 5239 and matched the front and back pieces to the Schnittvision pieces.  The clear plastic pattern is the McCall's pattern. 

I trace my patterns using 3 or 4 mil plastic sheeting. It is meant for covering furniture, floors, etc. when painting but it is great for tracing patterns too. Inexpensive and easy to find, I usually pick it up at Target though I've also found it at Wal-Mart, Lowe's and Home Depot.

From the crotch up, the patterns are quite similar (in size, not style) and I’m thinking it should work.  My concern is the close-fitting leg – looks like jean styling to me. Unfortunately, I’m in need of office appropriate pants. So, I’ve put the Schnittvision pattern on the back burner and sewn the McCall’s pants instead. Yes, I even used the stretch cotton fabric that was intended for the Schnittvision pants. I need to find a heavier weight stretch fabric before I attempt them. 

McCall's 5239

Schnittvision Vol. 7 Pants

The McCall’s pants went together without any surprises; boring but can’t be helped.  I tried to take some photos wearing the pants but none of the detail, fitting or otherwise, showed up.

They fit reasonably well and starting with a size 18, I've made several changes to the pattern: 

• Shortened the crotch length
• Shortened the inseam
• Removed an additional inch from the top of the waist, tapering to the original seam allowance at center back
• Added to the side seams from the mid-hip to the waist
• Made a vertical tuck on the front pattern piece, incorporating the front dart and removing a total of 3/4" from the center of the front leg.  This is the same as the "flat back adjustment line" that is often included on the back pattern piece. 

And, as always, I sewed 1/4" twill tape into the outer edge of the pocket facings and into the waist seam.  The twill tape keeps those seams from stretching out.  One thing I didn’t do was to interface the hems of the pants.  I want to do that on the next pair and see if it makes any difference.

One of my long-term goals is to have a master pants pattern that I can use to make style changes.  I would love to try different types of pockets (including welt pockets), pocket flaps, etc.  However, it doesn’t make much sense to spend a lot of time on details until I get the fit thing figured out.

I’ve also put together another t-shirt Frankenpattern. Other than being much too long, it looks like it will fit.

Butterick 5555 – Loose-Fitting Top

I’d made this top several days ago and have been dragging my feet posting because I’m just not thrilled with it.  It started well enough as I made my usual pattern changes which included adding to the hem of view A (three inches) and shortening the sleeves (one inch).  I raised the center front opening about 5/8” while narrowing the bottom of the opening. I also added a strip of fusible interfacing to the part of the belt that wraps around the waist.  That will help keep the belt from folding over on itself.

The polyester fabric came from the local JoAnn’s or Hancock’s several months ago.  I don’t remember which. All I do remember is that it was an inexpensive (clearance) purchase and when I got it home, I wondered what I was thinking buying such a non-breathable fabric when it was so hot outside…

Shortly after I tried the nearly completed top on and walked around, the belt slid to my hips.  Disconcerted, I sewed thin bias-cut belt loops, opened the side seams at the waist and inserted them.  The belt loops corrected the slippage, but I bet I end up adding elastic to the waistline.  I’ll wear it a time or two first.  Maybe it will be all right.

In other news, I finally purchased the Schnittvision Neo Chic Collection, volume 7.  It contains thirteen garment patterns. I had first learned about Schnittvision from The Selfish Seamstress blog.  I kept postponing buying the software because it isn’t in English.  Really, it is straightforward after a visit to Google Translate. 

The software creates the patterns based on the body measurements you enter.  It takes fewer measurements than Bernina My Label to be able to print a pattern. And, like BML, seam and hem allowances are included. I bought volume 7 for the fitted leather jacket pattern, but to see how the software works I’m starting with pants. The pants require fewer measurements than the jacket. Also, right now I need pants more than I need a jacket.

My 64-bit operating system computer wouldn’t print the pattern but I had no problems when I used DD#1’s discarded 32-bit laptop.

The shipping cost from Germany to Texas was more than the software, but being curious, I ordered it anyway. Besides, due to non-use, I’ve opted not to renew my Burda Style subscription. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had one of those crazy-lined Burda sheets laid out on the sewing table and just laughed and snorted until I finally fold the pattern sheet back up and file it away. I do love the styles though and really want to be in a mindset to sew them.  And, that will eventually happen as those Burda sheets are still coming my way - DD#2 gifted me a Burda Style Plus subscription!

So, I’m trying something new. Have you sewn anything from the Schnittvision patterns?