The Beginning of the MOB Dress

With some decisions made, the process has begun. I have been shopping for months, trying to find an appropriate dress to wear at my daughter’s upcoming wedding. MOB dresses seem to fall into the following categories:

• Las Vegas showgirl
• Muddy colored polyester knits incorporating sequins and geriatric styling
• Cringe-worthy MOB regulation uniform 

 

Well, that just isn’t going to work. I ended up at Sew Elegant, a little shop on West Avenue, in San Antonio. They have lovely formal wear fabrics. My first visit was several months ago during lunch hour. This time, DD#1 accompanied me and when she saw this fabric, we were done shopping!

 

Now I have to decide on which patterns to use. I’ve looked at every pattern website I can think of along with searches through my own pattern collection. All I know right now is that there will be an unlined jacket from the embroidered silk organza and a simple, full-length dress sewn from the silk dupioni. The lining is rayon - Ambiance Bemberg. I’m thinking there should be an underlined bodice, but don’t really want to underline the whole dress as drapey is preferred for the skirt.

The lines need to be clean. That means no fancy pleating, ruffles, etc. to compete with the embroidery. The purple of the flowers matches the purple of the bridesmaid dresses and the mother of the groom’s dress is a creamy beige lace, so these fabrics will certainly coordinate. Tell me though - does that even matter?

For the dress, I’m considering 425A from the Autumn/Winter 2011 Burda Plus.

And, for the jacket, McCall’s 9700 (OOP from 1998), view A with the short sleeves from view B. View A lacks the front princess seams of view B. No side seams either, but the center back seam, which gives shaping, needs to go as it would be a shame to break up the flowers. Frankenpattern? Likely...

And, yes, a muslin will be happening very soon!

Happy Mother's Day!

Enjoy your week!

McCall’s 5239, View B – Classic Fit Pants

I’m eager to sew the Schnittvision pants, but from prior experience I know my chances of success are enhanced if I first compare an untested pattern to one that fits. So, with that in mind, I pulled out view B of McCall’s 5239 and matched the front and back pieces to the Schnittvision pieces.  The clear plastic pattern is the McCall's pattern. 

I trace my patterns using 3 or 4 mil plastic sheeting. It is meant for covering furniture, floors, etc. when painting but it is great for tracing patterns too. Inexpensive and easy to find, I usually pick it up at Target though I've also found it at Wal-Mart, Lowe's and Home Depot.

From the crotch up, the patterns are quite similar (in size, not style) and I’m thinking it should work.  My concern is the close-fitting leg – looks like jean styling to me. Unfortunately, I’m in need of office appropriate pants. So, I’ve put the Schnittvision pattern on the back burner and sewn the McCall’s pants instead. Yes, I even used the stretch cotton fabric that was intended for the Schnittvision pants. I need to find a heavier weight stretch fabric before I attempt them. 

McCall's 5239

Schnittvision Vol. 7 Pants

The McCall’s pants went together without any surprises; boring but can’t be helped.  I tried to take some photos wearing the pants but none of the detail, fitting or otherwise, showed up.

They fit reasonably well and starting with a size 18, I've made several changes to the pattern: 

• Shortened the crotch length
• Shortened the inseam
• Removed an additional inch from the top of the waist, tapering to the original seam allowance at center back
• Added to the side seams from the mid-hip to the waist
• Made a vertical tuck on the front pattern piece, incorporating the front dart and removing a total of 3/4" from the center of the front leg.  This is the same as the "flat back adjustment line" that is often included on the back pattern piece. 

And, as always, I sewed 1/4" twill tape into the outer edge of the pocket facings and into the waist seam.  The twill tape keeps those seams from stretching out.  One thing I didn’t do was to interface the hems of the pants.  I want to do that on the next pair and see if it makes any difference.

One of my long-term goals is to have a master pants pattern that I can use to make style changes.  I would love to try different types of pockets (including welt pockets), pocket flaps, etc.  However, it doesn’t make much sense to spend a lot of time on details until I get the fit thing figured out.

I’ve also put together another t-shirt Frankenpattern. Other than being much too long, it looks like it will fit.

McCall’s 6051 - Ironing Board Cover

Well, my first sewing project of 2011 is a replacement cover for my wobbly ironing board.  I’m the only one that uses the ironing board and then only while sewing.  It really should be replaced with a more stable model but I keep stalling as it does the job.  For years now, we have been using a garment steamer for our clothes because it just is quicker and we no longer melt or scorch them. Most of the time, the ironing board is out of sight (and out of mind) behind the laundry room door. 

The old cover, made about four or five years ago, finally developed a few holes and some brown water stains. The stains didn’t bother me much, as you had to hunt for them on the dark fabric of the old cover, but it was the holes that sent me over the edge. The original Teflon cover looked pretty good so I didn’t toss it. However, I did add another layer of cotton batting to the foam and quilt batting already there.

The fabric of the new cover is a Laura Ashley cotton purchased from Fabric Mart back in 2009. For a pattern, I used view A of McCall’s 6051. This is the first time I’ve used a pattern for an ironing board cover.  In the past, I traced the outline of the ironing board and added a few inches all the way around.  This was a $.99 pattern and I figured it could save me some time.

The instructions call for a casing made with double fold bias tape.  I skipped that and instead serged the edge and then attached the elastic directly to the wrong side of the fabric, stretching it as I zigzagged.

It’s good to have a fresh ironing board cover and for me, akin to eating black-eyed peas at the beginning of the New Year!

The 1952 Dress - Progress

I’ve been working on the 1952 dress.  The side seam zipper is next and I suppose I should create the shoulder pads before fitting the sleeves.  The shoulder pads are constructed from crinoline interfacing and thin layers cotton batting.  What I will actually end up using depends on what I have here. Likely, it would be less costly to purchase ready-made shoulder pads but I want to try making them.

I skipped the bound buttonholes and the ribbon seam binding. The seams were serger finished. I hadn’t considered putting bound buttonholes into a dress before. But, after thinking about it, they would be a good-looking detail.

I still haven’t decided what sleeve style to use. Also, I have been looking for a belt buckle and so far, they are either too large or the wrong material/color. Maybe I should start looking at RTW belts (hmmm, thrift store?) for an appropriate buckle.

The good thing is that there isn’t a deadline for completion. I merely saw the pattern in the file and, on impulse, decided I wanted to make it. So, no pressure other than I would like to have it hanging in the closet instead of on the dress form!

The Jean Jacket – McCall’s 5191

For me, sewing this jean jacket was like reading a novel that you just can’t put down.  I had to keep going until it was finished.  It was such a trouble-free project and everything fit together without any effort – even inserting the sleeves.  No basting, no easing required.  Painless.

The straight seams are perfect for my no-waist body type.  The fit is relaxed and comfortable.  I shortened the sleeves by two inches and deviated from the instructions by placing twill tape into the shoulder seams and I attached the back upper collar (no back neck facing) with machine stitching instead of hand stitching.

For interfacing, I used a light/mid-weight fusible Pellon.  It was interfacing that I have had forever and have repeatedly rejected almost to the point of pitching it.  It worked really well with this mystery fabric.  The buttons came from the stash.

I am looking forward to sewing this pattern again in denim.

Planning the 1952 Dress

I am still pulling the pieces together for the 1952 dress.  I went to another fabric store and it had a much better selection of buttons.  There were several that would work with the basketweave fabric.  However, most were too heavy and dry-clean only.  I decided on these twinkly (and washable!) ones.

I was surprised that the store actually had 4” zippers.  I have never had a reason before to seek out such short zippers and I really bought them out of curiosity.  Anyway, I’m prepared if I want the dress to have long sleeves.

No luck yet in finding a dressy black belt buckle. Nor do I have any shoulder pads in the stash.  I think I am going to sew them.  It doesn’t look like it would be difficult and I haven’t ever made shoulder pads before. So, why not?

In the meantime, I have cut out a jean jacket, McCall’s 5191.  This a Palmer/Pletsch Classic Fit pattern and is out of print.  The fabric is a Wal-Mart mystery fabric that was purchased a year or so ago when Wal-Mart still sold fabric.  If the jacket fits and is comfortable, I’ll sew it again in denim.  This really is a trial run to see if I like the style.  If I don’t, I do have another jean jacket pattern, McCall’s 5860, that I can use instead.

McCall's 8841 -The 1952 Dress

Well, other than being too long, it looks like it will fit.  Though you can't see it, the skirt nearly reaches the floor. To begin, I’m going to cut the skirt pieces several inches shorter.

The fabric I chose is a bright black basketweave that drapes and is ample enough for the long-sleeved version.  I bought it several months ago from Fabric Mart and it survived the washer and dryer.

There are three sleeves for this dress: short cuffed, cape and long.  The long sleeve has three small elbow darts and closes at the wrist with a zipper. Since the sleeve decision is still up in the air, I will wait to cut them out until the dress is further along.

An oddity (to me, at least) is the option of inserting a placket, instead of a zipper, into the side opening.  Just so you know, it isn’t important to me to utilize 1952 techniques on this dress.  I will be using my serger, fusible interfacing, and anything else that makes things easier.

I need to find three sparkly black buttons and a little belt buckle for this dress.  Today, I visited the fabric store. The sparkly black button selection was sad. I exited without buttons and/or a buckle.  I did, however, come out with four $.99 patterns.  The trip wasn’t a total waste of fossil fuel.

Silhouettes Ralph's Pant, #3600

I have been working on the Silhouttes pants. From the hip down, the fit is fine. The waist, however, is too big (how can that be?). To make adjusting the center back and sides seams easier, I sewed the waistband pieces separately onto the pants pieces. I have discovered that this “not found in nature” fabric is slippery and wearing the pants with a belt will be necessary. The pants will need belt loops and that has provided the excuse to try out the belt loop folder that came with the coverstitch.

For the first attempt, I used the foot that the instructions recommend.  Yes, I read the instructions this time! And, to make it easier to analyze, I chose contrasting thread.  The results were less than wonderful so I thought I’d switch to the binder foot.

The binder foot has a guide along the edge that keeps the fabric aligned.  It didn’t make any difference.  Practicing did.

Now, I don’t know that you have to have one of these folders to make belt loops. You could pre-press the strip and then send it through the machine. The folder just makes it a little easier. I do like this attachment and I am looking forward to sewing another pair of jeans.

A few days ago, I went through some stored sewing patterns that I keep separate from my other patterns. In this group are patterns (mostly vintage) that, for one reason or another, I likely will not use but don’t want to get rid of. Anyway, this 1952 McCall’s dress pattern, a gift from my mother, was tucked in with the apron patterns. It is my size! Coming into Autumn, this dress may not be seasonable but I think it is next in line.

Canine Neckerchief Fashion

In the past few weeks, our cairn terrier has had infections in both ears.  He is on the mend but in taking him to the vet, DD#1 determined that his leash was worn and no longer suitable for use in public.  So, she bought him a new one.

Well, put a new leash in the mix and everything else looks sort of tired and shabby.  Before this new leash, the poor dog hadn't had anything new added to his wardrobe in a very long time.  DD#2, home for the Fourth of July weekend, decided an update was necessary.

She took matters into her own hands and sewed a new neckerchief for him using a cairn approved TNT pattern, McCall's 5016.  This pattern is now out of print.  The copyright date on the back of the envelope is 2005.

Our dog weighs about nineteen pounds and the medium size (10½” x 11”) fits him well.

Unlike standard canine neckerchiefs, this one doesn’t have tie ends.  Instead, the dog collar slips through the casing.  I like this method as you don't have to be concerned if it is tied too tightly or if it becomes too loose and catches on things.  Plus, it always looks tidy even if the dog doesn't!

DD#2 did a great job. I see more sewing in her future. Don’t you?

Jeans - A Few Photos

The best part of this project was hammering the rivets on at midnight! I had been excited about those rivets and wanted to attach them as soon as I could. I restrained myself as I didn't want them to needlessly scratch the clear extension table on the Bernina. As it was, the brass zipper did leave its mark.....

The jeans fit better on me than they do on this dress form, but I thought you might want to see them from a different angle. Sorry, I can't do much about the color. The photos above are more representative of the denim color.

If I went to the store and tried these on, I would buy them. So, by that standard, I deem this project a success. Now, how do I get the blue dye off of my hands?

Jeans - Waistband

After examining the EB jeans (above), I opted to cut the waistband for my jeans on the lengthwise grain.  The EB jeans have a curved waistband, with the fronts cut on the crosswise grain and the back pieces meeting at the center back on the bias.  If there is interfacing in the waistband, I could not detect it.  The only thing I do not like about these jeans is the waistband.  They are fine out of the dryer - for about 5 minutes.  Then the waist stretches and stretches some more.  If I am unfortunate enough to forget my belt and wear them in public, I am punished by concern that the waist will end up at my knees.  By cutting on the lengthwise grain I am attempting to correct that.  I do like everything else about them.  Perhaps my next jeans project should involve replication.

To reduce bulk, I considered using a lighter weight cotton facing on the waistband instead of the doubled over denim strip. Feeling obligated to match the fabric to the pocket facings (and, admit it - you are tickled by the cats), I figured that if I wasn't lucky careful at the center fronts, the white of the fabric would peek out. So, with full understading, I endanger my remaining size 18 needles.

The waistband was sewn on, using a 5/8" seam allowace on the fronts and tapering to 1/4" at the center back.  I went ahead and cut a strip of the denim for the belt loops and topstitched, per the pattern instructions. It looks nice, but it is four layers thick! A bit much, especially as it will be doubled over to attach to the jeans. I think I need to come up with a thinner version.

Jeans - Almost Hammer Time

I put the jeans on the dress form so you could see how they are coming together.  The dress form is shorter than me, hence the rolled up legs.  I lightened the photos so the stitching would show up better - the denim is actually quite dark.  The waistband and it's accompanying details (topstitching, belt loops and the buttonhole/button) need to be added.  And, let us not forget the rivets.

So far, other than that awkward center back seam (which was due to not planning ahead) this has been an uncomplicated project.  I am, however, expecting difficulty with the waistband.  It will be a challenge as there are many layers of denim at the center fronts to deal with.  The buttonhole will be interesting, too - also because of the number of layers.

I'm thinking that after trying this jeans thing a few more times, most of the fitting and style issues will be worked out.  Makes me want to buy a roll of denim and practice.  But, I may be speaking too soon.  Let's see how the waistband goes.....