Sorta/Kinda Stuck

I have several projects in the works, but can't seem to get past the pattern tracing on any of them. It is all because of the last Burda blouse. I've pretty much decided that I'm sewing the wrong shirt/top/blouse size. Well, that blouse fits, but it could be a size smaller and still work just fine.

And, even though the jacket pattern looked okay on the dress form, I haven't sewn the muslin yet. I want to try the blouse pattern again, in the next size down, and see if that works. If it does, I'll retrace the jacket pattern in a smaller size and go from there.

It took forever for me to realize that by starting with a smaller sized pants pattern I could eliminate having to make so many pattern adjustments. Here I am again - same song, second verse. One would think this awareness would encourage me. After all, this is the first time in my life I've had pants in my closet that actually fit!

In the mornings, I head out the door with lunch bag in hand. It carries my breakfast, the coffee cup I’ll use for the day and a mid-day snack. The bag is starting to look sad and it is time to plan the replacement. My first thought is it would be less expensive to purchase one and I've been shopping online but haven’t found anything interesting. I don’t mind sewing the new one, but that heavy interfacing is pricey stuff! I’m looking for one that is age appropriate and yet slightly quirky. Other than the thick interfacing, I bet I have everything necessary, including a pattern.  Could I substitute a layer or two of batting and some kind of plastic insert for the bottom?

The temps have dropped slightly – enough that I can almost think about sewing long sleeves!

Planning the 1952 Dress

I am still pulling the pieces together for the 1952 dress.  I went to another fabric store and it had a much better selection of buttons.  There were several that would work with the basketweave fabric.  However, most were too heavy and dry-clean only.  I decided on these twinkly (and washable!) ones.

I was surprised that the store actually had 4” zippers.  I have never had a reason before to seek out such short zippers and I really bought them out of curiosity.  Anyway, I’m prepared if I want the dress to have long sleeves.

No luck yet in finding a dressy black belt buckle. Nor do I have any shoulder pads in the stash.  I think I am going to sew them.  It doesn’t look like it would be difficult and I haven’t ever made shoulder pads before. So, why not?

In the meantime, I have cut out a jean jacket, McCall’s 5191.  This a Palmer/Pletsch Classic Fit pattern and is out of print.  The fabric is a Wal-Mart mystery fabric that was purchased a year or so ago when Wal-Mart still sold fabric.  If the jacket fits and is comfortable, I’ll sew it again in denim.  This really is a trial run to see if I like the style.  If I don’t, I do have another jean jacket pattern, McCall’s 5860, that I can use instead.

McCall's 8841 -The 1952 Dress

Well, other than being too long, it looks like it will fit.  Though you can't see it, the skirt nearly reaches the floor. To begin, I’m going to cut the skirt pieces several inches shorter.

The fabric I chose is a bright black basketweave that drapes and is ample enough for the long-sleeved version.  I bought it several months ago from Fabric Mart and it survived the washer and dryer.

There are three sleeves for this dress: short cuffed, cape and long.  The long sleeve has three small elbow darts and closes at the wrist with a zipper. Since the sleeve decision is still up in the air, I will wait to cut them out until the dress is further along.

An oddity (to me, at least) is the option of inserting a placket, instead of a zipper, into the side opening.  Just so you know, it isn’t important to me to utilize 1952 techniques on this dress.  I will be using my serger, fusible interfacing, and anything else that makes things easier.

I need to find three sparkly black buttons and a little belt buckle for this dress.  Today, I visited the fabric store. The sparkly black button selection was sad. I exited without buttons and/or a buckle.  I did, however, come out with four $.99 patterns.  The trip wasn’t a total waste of fossil fuel.

Jeans - What I Know So Far

Here are the front leg pieces from the two McCall's patterns.  I don't think the story needs a lot of words.  This is why I wanted to compare them.  And the back pieces:

Seeing there was a such a significant difference, I compared both patterns to my Eddie Bauer (EB) jeans.  The Misses' pattern, size 18, is fairly close to the jeans.  The finished leg bottoms are about 2" larger on the pattern than the EB jeans.  That can be changed.  Also, the back pocket is shorter on the pattern, too short.   I am going to borrow the back pocket from the Women's pattern as it is almost the size of the back pocket on the EB jeans. I selected a piece of unpleasant grey polyester and sewed the muslin.

I didn't bother to sew on the waistband as it is a straight strip of folded fabric.  The finished height measurement is similar to that of the EB jeans.  Had the waistband been curved, I would have tested it on this muslin.

By the way, the muslin fit well.

I tried out the topstitching thread.  Of course, right after I ordered it, I read (just about everywhere) that upholstery thread should be used for topstitching jeans, not topstitching thread.  Huh? 

Deflated, I decided to use it anyway and threaded the Bernina, using one of the size 18 jeans needles and all-purpose thread in the bobbin.  It seemed to do fine.  I haven't played with it on the denim yet - waiting until I have scraps.  The seams are not flat felled in the pattern instructions.  I think that will be acceptable, except for the crotch seam.  If you look closely at the above photo (near the center), you can see white thread showing at the seam.  And that is without a body putting stress on it.  As you know, I do not have a flat fell foot. It is not necessary to have one to do a flat felled seam, just easier.  The challenge, if I try a flat felled seam, will be the center back yoke seam, where all of those layers come together. 

This first pair of jeans is really an experiment and I don't know if flat felled seams should be the focus of the testing.  Right now, I'm thinking good fit and appropiate style are what I need to be concerned with.  But, what good is that if I bust the seam the first time they are worn?

Do you think the ole' Bernina can handle all these layers of heavy denim?  Cross your fingers....

Jeans - The Rivets Have Arrived!

The color is what I was expecting and they are not too shiny.  DD#2 bought me a Dritz jean rivet tool kit to attach them.  From what I can tell, the only other tool needed is a hammer.  Well, I also need a nail and maybe a scrap of wood, to protect the floor from the hammer.

I picked up this pattern, McCall's 5142.  It is similar to the other McCall's jeans pattern, but it is a Misses' size, not a Women's.  I border between Misses' and Women's sizes and, according to the pattern measurements, this one should fit me, too.  After comparing the two, I may morph them, depending on what I see. From past experience, I know that changes will be made, regardless of which side I choose.  For this project, I have decided to choose both.

I finally cut out the pieces for the mock wrap t-shirt.  This will be another muslin as I altered the inset piece to attach at the shoulders and the armscyes.  The 1/4" folded-over front edge finish will be replaced with a band.  The sleeve hems will also be finished with the same type of band:  a folded rectangle that is slightly stretched as it is sewn to the other pieces.

Jeans - Gettin' My Ducks in a Row

Look what came to the house today!  I have also ordered antique brass jeans rivets from Grommet Mart.  Time to trace the pattern and find some unloved fabric to use for a muslin.  I'm excited!

Jeans - Upcoming Project

There has been a lot of jeans sewing on the blogs I visit and it has inspired me.  Well, that and the fact that I currently have only two pairs of jeans.  One, from Eddie Bauer, are faded, tired and have always been too large around the waist area.  Large as in have to wear a belt.  The other pair, worn only a few times, are Levi's, and were purchased for $8.00 at Marshalls.  They border on being "mom" jeans.  I hang my head in shame.....

Shopping for blue jeans has been painful and most always, unsuccessful.  Too long, too short, never quite right.  And, price doesn't matter.  $8.00 or $108.00.  Fail.  So, I am willing to try sewing them.  Afterall, I do possess the workhorse Bernina 930 and it's jeans foot, #145, and the blind hemming foot, #016.  I haven't used the jeans foot before.  As for the blind hemming foot, I know that beautiful topstitching is but one of it's special talents.  Will I need a flat fell foot?  If I do, I don't have one.  But, I bet eBay does.....

The jeans pattern frequently used, successfully, on the various sewing blogs is Jalie #2908.  Though the pattern measurements would work for me, I already have the jeans pattern pictured above, McCall's #5894.  This is a Palmer/Pletsch "Classic Fit" pattern.  After looking at the measurements, I think I will start with size 18W.  That "W" after the 18 means it should have a better chance of fitting me and therefore gets approval for testing.

I have a piece of denim that I purchased from Fabric.com a few months ago, but other items are needed, too. For notions, I ended up at Atlanta Thread & Supply Company.  I ordered Levi gold topstitching thread, a few brass zippers, jeans buttons and last, but not least, jeans sewing machine needles.  I didn't see jeans rivets on their site.  This pattern doesn't include them, but if I had them, I would use them.

So far, I have spent $.99 for the pattern, about $12.00 for the denim and a few dollars for the notions. Not a huge investment. Especially, if it works. If it doesn't, uh, maybe I will have to purchase the Jalie pattern. Oh, I do have the Bernina My Label jeans pattern. Logic would say that I should start there.....

I haven't forgotton about the mock wrap t-shirt.  I also need work on pants.

Muslin for Simplicity 4586, View A

I basted together the muslin pieces for the Simplicity blouse.  Initially, I had traced a size 22 with extra (lots of extra!) alloted for the side seams.  The additional amount was unnecessary.  In fact, it was too wide/large overall, especially in the shoulders.  I don't get it.  When I had tried the size 22 pattern pieces on the dress form it was a reasonable fit.  Also, when compared, the size 22 blouse pieces were not that different from my Bernina My Label shirt pattern pieces.

I cut the pattern pieces down to a size 20, except for the side seams which were left at size 22 and made another muslin.  This one is much better.  From the original pattern, two inches were added to the hem and the sleeves were shortened by one inch.  I also raised the center front neckline an inch and a half.  I used a French curve to redraw the neckline and modified the front facing to match.

Anyway, I was able to move freely when I tried this one on.  It wasn't too tight or too big.  I am going to sew it up!

This is the fabric I chose, a hand washable cotton/silk blend.  I bought the pearl buttons from Benno's Buttons.

Sorry, got sidetracked......

Check out this link at the UNT Digital Library: Work Clothes for Women. This little gem is Tammyriffic and summarizes what I am trying to do.  Namely, my clothes are to have the following qualities:

• Action room - my clothes need built in room for movement
• Design for service - simplicity and function, no extra frills
• Cloth to wash and wear - no dry cleaning, please!
• Becoming color - enough said!
• "Safety first" features - to protect from clumsiness: no loose parts (dangling tie belts, drapey sleeves, etc.)
• Time saving styles - easy on/off clothing to keep dressing time to a minimum

FYI, the fabric sample from my last post isn't junk.  It is screen printed Vera Wang , 99% cotton, 1% Lycra.  Well, it won't get finished talking about it.....

Thinking about the Shirt

Knowing my preference for comfortable clothing, I purposely left off the front and back vertical darts when I traced the shirt pattern. I have reconsidered. I need to know how accurate the software is. Well, to be honest - the quality of the measurement taking.....I also need to know how this shirt will fit if I intend to manipulate darts to create other styles (I do intend to). The button placement looks off to me. Shouldn't there be a button at the bust point to hold everything together when you move your arms? And, what is up with the 5/8" seam allowance for the collar and stand? All this before I have even sewed up the muslin......