Fabriconda #4 – Style Arc Abby Cardi

I’ve spent the past few weeks building a stack of prepped patterns. When it threatened to fall over, it was time to begin matching them to fabric.

One of the patterns, the Style Arc Abby Cardi, I’ve had since it was first offered but I wasn’t ambitious enough to change out the plate on my old serger to sew a rolled hem. Now, with the new one, I just have to turn a knob and I’ve been looking for an excuse to try it. The manual recommends using wooly nylon thread in the upper and lower loopers, but there was only black and white wooly nylon in the drawer. So, red serger thread was the choice and it worked just fine. I used a large eyed needle to pull the tails through the hem threads on the back and applied a bit of Fray Check to seal after trimming.

 

Soon after I got the new serger, I bought it a present: an elasticator presser foot. I’ve been looking to streamline the clear elastic/twill tape shoulder procedure and for a few dollars thrown at eBay I was able to do that. The foot feeds the elastic through while encasing it in the stitching. You can adjust how much you want the elastic stretched while stitching; say, for example, when sewing elastic to the leg of a swimsuit. For the shoulders, I let it feed the elastic without any stretching. I understand that the purpose of the foot is to evenly stitch stretched elastic onto fabric but I don't know why I couldn't also use it to run twill tape onto woven fabrics. Another experiment for another day...

Elasticator Foot - Side View

Elasticator Foot - Top View

There were two pieces of the red knit fabric within the Fabriconda and both had wide masking tape residue parallel to the selvages. It was tricky business getting the pieces to fit and there was just enough leftover to test out the rolled hem.
 

I did not make many changes to the pattern. Just the usual one inch taken from the sleeve length and straightening of the side seams to provide a bit more room for my mid-section. It wasn’t necessary. In fact, the cardi was shapeless and baggy. I went back to the original pattern side seams and I think it looks great!

With the Texas high temperatures, I doubt I’ll get to wear it before October. No problem as this was all about testing the pattern, the rolled hem, and the elasticator foot. All were successful and in the meantime, I intend to sew the short-sleeved version in a lightweight knit to wear over a camisole or tank.

Next? I’m thinking Style Arc’s Island Ali Top combined with more fabric from the Fabriconda.

Jalie 3245 - The Raglan Tee

I have a lot of patterns. Some would say I have more than I could ever use and they would be right. Yet, that doesn’t prevent me from buying more. These days, I purchase most of them online and once in my possession, I scan the front and back of the envelopes and file them first by pattern company and then by number. I’ve turned the PDFs into my personal pattern catalog by grouping them together by categories: skirts, tops, dresses, etc. I keep the ones I want to make soon in a basket by the Bernina. Having those Golden D’or remnants got me to thinking about trying one that has been patiently waiting, Jalie 3245.

Jalie 3245

I took my measurements and a leap of faith and traced the size that matched. And, to give my faith a bit of insurance, I also compared it to my Style Arc Susan t-shirt pattern. It was spot on.

The fabric for this first t-shirt came from a Wal-Mart $1 or $2/yard cotton knit. There wasn’t enough length for the sleeves, so I quickly serged scraps on to make pieces that would work. I wouldn’t have thought to do that otherwise. I like it.

But, what I didn’t like was my bra straps at the edge of the neckline threatening to show every time I moved. Therefore, this second version has a neckline with one inch less exposure. It doesn’t change the look (can you even tell?) but makes me much more comfortable. I started with the top back of the sleeve (which is actually the neck) and, using the French curve, gradually added one inch to the top of the sleeve and the front neckline. The back stayed the same.

The orange stripe is a soft stretchy cotton from the Golden D’or bag. There was barely enough for the front and back and I didn’t even try to match the stripes though it doesn’t look bad. I want to say the grey and white knit was from a Fabric Mart bundle. Anyway, there is enough of it to make something else later.

I love this pattern and it has so much potential!

The eBay serger arrived. I chose this model at it was pretty close to the one I had. The tension disks are different and you don’t have to change the needle plate to do a rolled hem, but other than that they are very similar. It wasn’t used much at all but will have its chance!

Have a wonderful week!

One Step Forward...

Once home, I made quick work of getting those Golden D'or Fabric Outlet pieces inspected and washed. After serious culling, the remaining fabrics are worth the seven dollars paid. The picture above is a sampling. Don't know that I would do that again, but it was amusing to see what was in that bag!

Before the Dallas trip, I completed a pair of capris (Ottobre Woman Every-Woman's Pants 05-2008-16), the Classic Flares (Ottobre Woman 02-2013-20) and a pair of cropped pants using Burda 7068. They were all made from the same $1.99/yd black windowpane cotton fabric purchased from FabricMart.com. Same fabric, same thread and so I couldn't help but put them together assembly line style. Did it save any time? Maybe yes, maybe no. But it was satisfying when I had three new garments all at once. I didn't take photos mainly because details on black fabric do not show up well and besides, nothing you haven't seen me make before. Just pants.

Soon after the assembly line ended, I started the Vogue 1247 Rachel Comey top and was pleased that I'd pinned the pattern to the dress form before cutting the fabric. The top would have been way too large had I gone with the size that matched my measurements. I chose a less-than-wonderful floral polyester and all went well until I went to overlock. The usually dependable Kenmore was skipping stitches and I blamed it on the polyester. I switched out needle sizes and types and unthreaded and rethreaded the machine. It didn't help. Finally, I removed all thread and rotated the hand wheel. Yep, sure enough, the looper was hitting the back of the needle plate. It wasn't loose nor did it look odd. I removed the plate and laid it flat on the table. Flat? Shouldn't it be flat? Nope, it was like a rocking chair...

See that triangular piece on the right of the needle plate? It was bent. I took pliers to it and that corrected the skipped stitches. No clue as to how it got bent. Not trusting it to remain flat, I bought a replacement from eBay, swapped them out and the the machine stitches like new. Now, in my panic before I determined the problem was the needle plate, I overreacted and there is a similar model (via eBay) on its way.

The quilt? It is resting as:

• I ripped the Supreme Slider by catching it on the needle when removing it from the Bernina. I'm hoping I can find some type of tape that will keep me from having to buy another one anytime soon - any ideas? I also somehow managed to stitch through it.

• I quilted to the edge of a panel where I should have left a seam allowance. Yes, I have some unstitching to do and I'm not happy about it...

 

In other news, DD #1 gifted me some Robert Kaufman fat quarters from the Passage to India collection. I love the prints and was able to find more online. I'm in no hurry to decide what these fabrics will become. Aren't they beautiful?

Machine Maintenance

The machines performed so well throughout the jeans construction that I am going to reward them with a thorough cleaning and oiling. You have already met my Bernina 930 Record. Above, is my faithful Kenmore Overlock 3/4D, purchased in 1991. It took charge of that denim and, granted, it protested a time or two, but no needles were broken.

There is a large piece of the denim left. Enough to make this tote - the large one on the upper right. Oh, there are lots of rivets left, too.....

Simplicity 4586 Blouse - Completed

The blouse has been completed and I am pleased with it. The fabric is nice to the touch and most importantly - it fits!  This cotton/silk fabric was a bit sticky going past the feed dogs, but not where it caused a problem.  It just didn't glide.  The pattern is well-drafted and can be sewn up many times and not look the same.  There is, however, no challenge.  But that can be good if a new blouse is needed quickly.  This wardrobe basic will be included in my TNT (tried and true) patterns.

I kept thinking about buttonholes while I was putting this blouse together.  Making buttonholes on the Bernina 930 is not difficult.  If you are not extremely careful, though, there can be slight size differences from one buttonhole to the next.  I don't like that.  So, this morning, I dug out my old Kenmore sewing machine.  I haven't used it in years, since it had suffered a parking lot crash when one of the carrying case latches broke.  It hasn't been the same since.  But, I thought I would give it a try as it has an automatic buttonhole feature.

To make a buttonhole on the Kenmore, you place your chosen button into the slot on the back of the buttonhole foot.  It makes the buttonhole the perfect size for the button. You can sew as many buttonholes as you please and they will each be exactly the same.  I used it for the buttonholes on this blouse.  It did a great job!  It is worthy and won't be packed away again.  Yeah!

My button sewing technique has improved.  After sewing the buttons on, using the Bernnina 930 and the awesome #18 foot, they were finished by hand. For each, I threaded a needle with the two front thread tails, sewed through the button, and took a few stitches on the back. I then tied the threads off, including the two back threads. It took a few minutes to do, but they are secure.

The only other non-machine sewing was the tacking of the back facing to the shoulder seams. It could have been done by machine, but the needle was there and it was just a few stitches on each side.  I didn't mind.