MOB Dress In Action

Details to come...

Muslin for MOB Dress

Bodice: Bernina My Label princess seam dress

• Bodice shortened to fit midriff
• Neckline lowered (may be lowered 1/2" more)
• Outer shoulder narrowed by 5/8"
• Gathers added to center front

Midriff: Butterick 4510 Maggy London, from 2005 (OOP)

• Pin-tucks, pleats, ruching or alternative will be included to add interest (lining pieces were used for this muslin)

Skirt: Burda Plus Autumn/Winter 2011 425A

• Skirt height trimmed to meet midriff at waist

Jacket:

• To be determined...

Blue Top/Grey Pants

I have been sewing t-shirts for my mom out of cotton/lycra knits that I’d ordered from Denver Fabrics. Everything from the order arrived as anticipated except for this lightweight blue piece. Knowing she wouldn’t like a t-shirt made from thin fabric, I figured it might as well become something for me. Now, I’m not too thrilled with this fabric either but, at least, it is another top to wear. I can't complain.

Using Butterick 5219, it went together quickly. Not only was the pattern already adjusted (I’d sewn it before) but I was able to sew most of it on the serger and coverstitch. The Bernina did the center front gathering stitches and the yoke facing understitching. The yokes were interfaced with Pro-Sheer Elegance. That stuff is becoming my favorite interfacing.

I’ve been wearing my black cropped pants quite a bit. They are dressier than the denim shorts but still comfortable with the high temps here. To keep them from being tired before their time, I made another pair from the same pattern (Burda Style 02-2011-123A).

This is what the fabric actually looks like...

The fabric is a grey Vera Wang silk and cotton pinstripe that I had purchased from Fabric Mart way back in 2009. It kept getting passed over as I deemed it too heavy for a shirt yet too lightweight for pants. I decided it might just work for this pattern. It does.

I made a few changes by adding those Burda 007-E005-DL back pockets that I had put on my last pair of shorts, attached plenty of nickel ring rivets (purchased from GrommetMart.com) and sewed on some belt loops. I kept the Simplicity 7581 front pockets as that sped the project along - I didn’t have to re-trace pattern pieces.

Burda Style 02-2011-123A

This pair looks so different from the Burda line drawing (and the black pair too!) but they did indeed come from that pattern.

Next? Not sure. Maybe the dark green cotton/rayon stretch twill that was hanging out with the grey pinstripe. But, I do need more tops and yet the denim roll is calling…

Butterick 5555 – Loose-Fitting Top

I’d made this top several days ago and have been dragging my feet posting because I’m just not thrilled with it.  It started well enough as I made my usual pattern changes which included adding to the hem of view A (three inches) and shortening the sleeves (one inch).  I raised the center front opening about 5/8” while narrowing the bottom of the opening. I also added a strip of fusible interfacing to the part of the belt that wraps around the waist.  That will help keep the belt from folding over on itself.

The polyester fabric came from the local JoAnn’s or Hancock’s several months ago.  I don’t remember which. All I do remember is that it was an inexpensive (clearance) purchase and when I got it home, I wondered what I was thinking buying such a non-breathable fabric when it was so hot outside…

Shortly after I tried the nearly completed top on and walked around, the belt slid to my hips.  Disconcerted, I sewed thin bias-cut belt loops, opened the side seams at the waist and inserted them.  The belt loops corrected the slippage, but I bet I end up adding elastic to the waistline.  I’ll wear it a time or two first.  Maybe it will be all right.

In other news, I finally purchased the Schnittvision Neo Chic Collection, volume 7.  It contains thirteen garment patterns. I had first learned about Schnittvision from The Selfish Seamstress blog.  I kept postponing buying the software because it isn’t in English.  Really, it is straightforward after a visit to Google Translate. 

The software creates the patterns based on the body measurements you enter.  It takes fewer measurements than Bernina My Label to be able to print a pattern. And, like BML, seam and hem allowances are included. I bought volume 7 for the fitted leather jacket pattern, but to see how the software works I’m starting with pants. The pants require fewer measurements than the jacket. Also, right now I need pants more than I need a jacket.

My 64-bit operating system computer wouldn’t print the pattern but I had no problems when I used DD#1’s discarded 32-bit laptop.

The shipping cost from Germany to Texas was more than the software, but being curious, I ordered it anyway. Besides, due to non-use, I’ve opted not to renew my Burda Style subscription. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had one of those crazy-lined Burda sheets laid out on the sewing table and just laughed and snorted until I finally fold the pattern sheet back up and file it away. I do love the styles though and really want to be in a mindset to sew them.  And, that will eventually happen as those Burda sheets are still coming my way - DD#2 gifted me a Burda Style Plus subscription!

So, I’m trying something new. Have you sewn anything from the Schnittvision patterns?

Clash V – HP Weekender Sunshine Tops vs. Butterick 5219

I bet you thought I had forgotten about these tops and this blog, too!  Sorry, I had not, though I’m not sure why I haven’t been sewing.  I want to blame it on the heat.  Only, I spend no time evading the sun so that excuse doesn’t fly.  When I finally sat down to sew, it took only a few hours to sew both of these tops.  Easy.

Like the Clash muslins, I used stretch jersey knit and block fused the interfacing to the neckband fabric. Without further fuss, here they are:

HP Weekender Sunshine Tops

Of the two patterns, this one has a more fitted shape. The gathering/draping cleverly molds the fabric to the bust area.

Butterick 5219

The Butterick pattern is more modest than the Sunshine Top. It doesn’t fit as closely to the bust.

So, which top has won the Clash?  I have to say that I like them both.  Both fit me better than anything I can find at Chico’s or Talbot’s.  Not only that, these tops were inexpensive to make and this basic style can easily be changed by varying the sleeve lengths and/or embellishing the neckbands.  So, in my world, they both win.  And by that, I really mean that I win!

Next up? I am sewing Simplicity 5303, a shirt with collar and trim variations.  The copyright date is 2003. Needless to say, it is now out of print.  I am going to sew the short-sleeved version, View E (the white one on the left), for my muslin.

If this becomes a TNT (tried and true) pattern, pintucks and embroidery will be added to the pockets and collars of future models.  The Bernina 930 has a few pintuck feet.  I'm looking for a reason to get to use them!

I have fitted the pattern pieces to the dress form and it looks like it might be too big in the armscye/shoulder area (what else is new?).  Let's see what happens.....

Clash IV - Muslins

I sewed up the muslins several days ago and they have been patiently waiting.  Today, I finally claimed a chunk of time and put them on the dress form.

The Sunshine muslin was made from the leftovers of my daughter’s New Look 6179 top.  To make a reasonable pattern comparison, I used an identical fabric (a stretch jersey knit), in a different print, for the Butterick top.

Scraps of heavy weight interfacing were block-fused to the neckband fabrics before cutting.  A soft knit interfacing would have been a better choice but this was a good use of the scraps.

HP Weekender Sunshine Tops

The Sunshine top is too large under the arms (the excess has been pinned) and the hip side seams curve out unnaturally.  The waist is fine.  As I had suspected, something is off with the armscye.  Too high?  I don’t know, but it needs to be dealt with once the side seams have been corrected.  The hem is narrow and would look nicer if it were at least one inch deep.

Butterick 5219

The hem band of the Butterick pattern visually adds width and combined with the short length makes for one unflattering top.  That band will disappear.  The top is too big around.  If you look, you can see the extra pinned on the right.

I experimented with the Bernina stitches while sewing the muslins.  And, for grins, I used leftover bobbin thread.  The bobbin box is now tidy but the muslins have crazy stitches that do not blend into the fabric.

I haven’t found a stretch stitch that I like for topstitching knit hems.  It is a small matter but one that cannot be resolved without ownership of a coverstitch machine.  For now, I need to make friends with a Bernina 930 stretch stitch and get on with it.

Okay, the side seams and length on both patterns require adjusting.  Remember, though, I had added to the side seams so I can’t fault the patterns for that.  The armscye on the Sunshine top is strange and the Butterick top will be losing its hem band.  At this point, they are pretty much even.

Clash III - Adjusted Neckbands

The neckband pieces have been redrawn.  They now lay flat on the dress form (and on me).

HP Weekender Sunshine Tops

The Sunshine neckband pieces required significant tweaking. Darts. Small darts. Lots of small darts. No changes were made to the outer edge.  I decided to add ½’ instead of 1” to the inner edge.

HP Weekender Sunshine Tops

The center back upper edge appeared fine and therefore remained intact. Using a French curve, the new line tapered out ½” for the rest of the band.  Though, looking at the photo, it should be raised about 1/4".

Butterick 5219

Like the Sunshine, the Butterick neckband also had ½” added after pinching out the extra on the back piece. The ½” was added to the entire inner edge of the front and back pieces. The outer edge was not changed.

Butterick 5219

Here is a comparison of the two altered bands:

From experience, I know that I will not be happy with a loose neckline.  The neckbands have to be right and it is easy to deal with it now before getting bogged down with armscye issues.  It may take forty seven days to produce something I can actually wear but I am willing to take it on.

Don't worry, the neckbands won’t be alone for long. The front and back bodices will be attached soon.

Onward.

Clash II - Neckbands

Today, my sewing time focused on the neckbands.  Starting with the Sunshine, I took several small darts in the neckband, stopping at the lower seam allowance. 

Stopping at the seam allowance prevents the outer edge from changing shape.  I am going to redraw the inner edge, adding 1/2" instead of the 1" shown here.

After I modified the neckband, I had a “duh” moment. Since it was too big, why couldn’t I just use a smaller size (16)?   The size 16 front fits.

The back piece, though, doesn't make it to the center back of the dress form.  Next, I tried the size 16 front combined with the size 18 back.  Closer, but like the 16, it still didn't fit.  Overall, I need the size 18 (really, a size 20 or 22 for girth) to have the top fit me.

Out of the envelope, the Butterick neckband fits better than the Sunshine.  The back has a bit taken out of the neck edge.  When I try it on, the front feels too low and wide.  Same with the back.  Yes, on the dressform it looks fine.  But, on me, it just looks silly and more like the beginnings of a nightgown, not a t-shirt.  I will revise (not much) the inner edge on the second round.

The neckband pieces will be redrawn, incorporating these changes, and tested again.

Clash of the Scoop-Neck Tee Patterns

Dearest readers, the time to compare and contrast two very similar t-shirt patterns has finally arrived.  How lucky you are to witness such an event!

Please note that these patterns were purchased ages ago with the intent that they would have a face-off.  First, Butterick 5219, like all of my Big 4 acquisitions, was probably obtained for $.99 at Jo-Ann’s or Hancock’s.  The contender, the HotPatterns Weekender Sunshine Tops pattern, has a fancier pedigree.  It came from Fabric.com at full retail.

Though their roots are different, these patterns are very similar.  However, the hem finishes are distinct.  The hem of the Butterick top is sewn with a folded self-fabric band.  The Sunshine hem is either turned and topstitched or knit ribbing is added.

To me, the center fullness of the Butterick illustration resembles maternity wear.  Though my midsection is ample, I have no desire to walk around looking pregnant.  Comfort, though, is crucial and I am therefore willing to give it a try.

The neckline of the HotPatterns top is wide and low.  I am neither at ease nor flattered by such a large neck opening. Well, a ruler and a Sharpie took care of that.  The solid line on the facing is the original cutting line.

I cut a size 20 for the Butterick and a size 18 (22 for the side seams) for the Sunshine.

Butterick 5219

HotPatterns Weekender Sunshine Tops

Looking at the Sunshine pattern on the dress form, you can see that something is not right with the armhole area.  Besides the ripples at the front armscye, the back armscye looks like it is cut too high.

Both patterns required that darts be added to the front and back neckband pieces in order to lay flat on the dress form.  This did not affect the armscyes.

Because I am not exactly the size of my dress form, I am going to sew the muslins, try them on and adjust as needed.  Any changes will be transferred to the pattern pieces.

The goal is to end up with an easy to construct, comfortable and versatile t-shirt pattern.  They each have potential, don’t you think?