Monday, February 21, 2011

Simplicity 7581 – Jeans Update

My new jeans are almost finished - they lack only the waist button and the obligatory rivets. Seems like forever since I began this project.  And yet, four jeans muslins were not enough. I tried on the size 18 muslin before I cut my fabric and decided I wanted some changes to the pattern. It finally hit me that I should just try the next smaller size.  Yes, yet another muslin! It was a good call because it really was more flattering.  So, I ended up cutting a 16 and the only modification was to the length.

I’m willing to go through these muslins as my goal it is have a handful of classic patterns that I can depend upon.  I want two styles of jeans patterns: this one (higher waist/slight boot cut leg) and another with a bit lower waist/slightly looser fit.

It took four machines to put the jeans together. I loaded the Bernina with navy cotton thread and used it to sew all of the seams. The serger took care of cleaning the edges and the coverstitch made the belt loops. I didn’t bother to press under the fabric strip before sending it through the folder and the denim fed without any problems.
The Singer 403A was utilized for topstitching. About time, right? I threaded the needle with khaki topstitching thread and more of the navy cotton for the bobbin. As expected, I had to adjust the pressure and the tension for the denim. I don’t have a “stitch in a ditch” foot for it (though one is now on the way via eBay) so the topstitching is wobbly. I knew it wasn’t perfect while I was stitching but the machine amused me and I just didn’t care.

The top edge of the pocket topstitching came from fashion disk #7, Icicle.  My instinct was to sew this embroidery pattern (and others too!) all over these jeans. You should be impressed that I exercised great control. Yep, minimal embroidery – I can actually wear these in public!
But bigger than messy topstitching and embroidery restraint, I finally attached the Singer Professional Buttonholer to the 403A and produced good-looking buttonholes! I had purchased the buttonholer back in November and had not taken time to work with it. I thought this project was the perfect opportunity. After all, it is only one buttonhole…
It took some time and I actually read the little booklet and cleaned/lubricated it before getting started with samples.  No, it’s not as quick as turning a few knobs, but you end up with a beautifully made buttonhole that will be consistent with as many as you wish to make.  So, this addition takes care of the bulk of my buttonhole woes. Reliable buttonhole spacing is next on my “to be conquered” list.

Have a wonderful week!

1 comment:

  1. remarkable restraint on the pockets - topstitching looking great! I realised last time I made jeans that the reason the tension was playing up was because of the bobbin tension - I have never altered that before but tightening it up made all the difference to how well the thread sat on the garment.