McCall’s 5239, View B – Classic Fit Pants

I’m eager to sew the Schnittvision pants, but from prior experience I know my chances of success are enhanced if I first compare an untested pattern to one that fits. So, with that in mind, I pulled out view B of McCall’s 5239 and matched the front and back pieces to the Schnittvision pieces.  The clear plastic pattern is the McCall's pattern. 

I trace my patterns using 3 or 4 mil plastic sheeting. It is meant for covering furniture, floors, etc. when painting but it is great for tracing patterns too. Inexpensive and easy to find, I usually pick it up at Target though I've also found it at Wal-Mart, Lowe's and Home Depot.

From the crotch up, the patterns are quite similar (in size, not style) and I’m thinking it should work.  My concern is the close-fitting leg – looks like jean styling to me. Unfortunately, I’m in need of office appropriate pants. So, I’ve put the Schnittvision pattern on the back burner and sewn the McCall’s pants instead. Yes, I even used the stretch cotton fabric that was intended for the Schnittvision pants. I need to find a heavier weight stretch fabric before I attempt them. 

McCall's 5239

Schnittvision Vol. 7 Pants

The McCall’s pants went together without any surprises; boring but can’t be helped.  I tried to take some photos wearing the pants but none of the detail, fitting or otherwise, showed up.

They fit reasonably well and starting with a size 18, I've made several changes to the pattern: 

• Shortened the crotch length
• Shortened the inseam
• Removed an additional inch from the top of the waist, tapering to the original seam allowance at center back
• Added to the side seams from the mid-hip to the waist
• Made a vertical tuck on the front pattern piece, incorporating the front dart and removing a total of 3/4" from the center of the front leg.  This is the same as the "flat back adjustment line" that is often included on the back pattern piece. 

And, as always, I sewed 1/4" twill tape into the outer edge of the pocket facings and into the waist seam.  The twill tape keeps those seams from stretching out.  One thing I didn’t do was to interface the hems of the pants.  I want to do that on the next pair and see if it makes any difference.

One of my long-term goals is to have a master pants pattern that I can use to make style changes.  I would love to try different types of pockets (including welt pockets), pocket flaps, etc.  However, it doesn’t make much sense to spend a lot of time on details until I get the fit thing figured out.

I’ve also put together another t-shirt Frankenpattern. Other than being much too long, it looks like it will fit.