The Jean Jacket – McCall’s 5191

For me, sewing this jean jacket was like reading a novel that you just can’t put down.  I had to keep going until it was finished.  It was such a trouble-free project and everything fit together without any effort – even inserting the sleeves.  No basting, no easing required.  Painless.

The straight seams are perfect for my no-waist body type.  The fit is relaxed and comfortable.  I shortened the sleeves by two inches and deviated from the instructions by placing twill tape into the shoulder seams and I attached the back upper collar (no back neck facing) with machine stitching instead of hand stitching.

For interfacing, I used a light/mid-weight fusible Pellon.  It was interfacing that I have had forever and have repeatedly rejected almost to the point of pitching it.  It worked really well with this mystery fabric.  The buttons came from the stash.

I am looking forward to sewing this pattern again in denim.

Planning the 1952 Dress

I am still pulling the pieces together for the 1952 dress.  I went to another fabric store and it had a much better selection of buttons.  There were several that would work with the basketweave fabric.  However, most were too heavy and dry-clean only.  I decided on these twinkly (and washable!) ones.

I was surprised that the store actually had 4” zippers.  I have never had a reason before to seek out such short zippers and I really bought them out of curiosity.  Anyway, I’m prepared if I want the dress to have long sleeves.

No luck yet in finding a dressy black belt buckle. Nor do I have any shoulder pads in the stash.  I think I am going to sew them.  It doesn’t look like it would be difficult and I haven’t ever made shoulder pads before. So, why not?

In the meantime, I have cut out a jean jacket, McCall’s 5191.  This a Palmer/Pletsch Classic Fit pattern and is out of print.  The fabric is a Wal-Mart mystery fabric that was purchased a year or so ago when Wal-Mart still sold fabric.  If the jacket fits and is comfortable, I’ll sew it again in denim.  This really is a trial run to see if I like the style.  If I don’t, I do have another jean jacket pattern, McCall’s 5860, that I can use instead.

McCall's 8841 -The 1952 Dress

Well, other than being too long, it looks like it will fit.  Though you can't see it, the skirt nearly reaches the floor. To begin, I’m going to cut the skirt pieces several inches shorter.

The fabric I chose is a bright black basketweave that drapes and is ample enough for the long-sleeved version.  I bought it several months ago from Fabric Mart and it survived the washer and dryer.

There are three sleeves for this dress: short cuffed, cape and long.  The long sleeve has three small elbow darts and closes at the wrist with a zipper. Since the sleeve decision is still up in the air, I will wait to cut them out until the dress is further along.

An oddity (to me, at least) is the option of inserting a placket, instead of a zipper, into the side opening.  Just so you know, it isn’t important to me to utilize 1952 techniques on this dress.  I will be using my serger, fusible interfacing, and anything else that makes things easier.

I need to find three sparkly black buttons and a little belt buckle for this dress.  Today, I visited the fabric store. The sparkly black button selection was sad. I exited without buttons and/or a buckle.  I did, however, come out with four $.99 patterns.  The trip wasn’t a total waste of fossil fuel.

Simplicity 4095, View B

Just like before, I went to select fabric for the McCall’s vintage dress and cotton knit fabric was waiting for me instead.  Today, it was the leftovers of a t-shirt made back in February.

This t-shirt is Simplicity 4095, view B.  The pattern is out of print but still available on the Simplicity website.  I cut a size 20W, added one inch to the hem but didn't shorten the sleeves.  Normally, I have to shorten the sleeve length.

Since this t-shirt fits, I may try the other one included with this pattern. It is, however, a mock wrap. And, as you know, I have not been successful with mock wraps.

Okay.  Onward.  The 1952 dress pattern awaits.

Tammyriffic Twinset

In looking through my fabrics for something to use for the vintage McCall’s dress, I came across the last piece of the heavy cotton jersey knit from Fabric.com.  This fabric did so well on the coverstitch that I was eager to sew with it again.

For my twinset, I chose the tank from Ottobre Woman 2/2007.  I cut a size 50 and didn’t bother to remove the seam allowance at the neck edge.

The cardigan is Simplicity 2474, a Threads Magazine Collection pattern. I cut a size 20 and didn't alter the hem or sleeve lengths. Usually, I have to shorten sleeve lengths an inch or two. Oh, I did cut the side seams and the underarm sleeve seams at size 22 as this fabric isn’t as stretchy as other knits. I followed the instructions and even sewed the sleeves in the round. They went in easily and I will do it that way next time as I think they hang better.

Clear elastic was sewn into the shoulder seams of both the tank and the cardigan. It wouldn’t hurt to sew it into the band seam on the next cardigan.

I love this twin set and the fact that it went together so quickly. I especially liked that no buttonholes were necessary!

The vintage McCall’s dress has a long-sleeved version that isn’t shown on the envelope. Hmmm….that sounds better for Fall/Winter, don’t you think?

Silhouttes Pants - Belt Loops Added

The Silhouttes pants are finished.  I found making belt loops on the coverstitch to be much easier than on the sewing machine.  I no longer fear them.

The pants fit but I’m going to continue my quest for the perfect pattern.  I’ve taken apart an old pair of Gap pants.

Well, half of the pants – a front, a back and half of the waistband.  The other half I’m saving for reference.  I’m going to merge the Gap pieces with a yet to be determined pants pattern and hopefully come up something that will fit nicely.

Silhouettes Ralph's Pant, #3600

I have been working on the Silhouttes pants. From the hip down, the fit is fine. The waist, however, is too big (how can that be?). To make adjusting the center back and sides seams easier, I sewed the waistband pieces separately onto the pants pieces. I have discovered that this “not found in nature” fabric is slippery and wearing the pants with a belt will be necessary. The pants will need belt loops and that has provided the excuse to try out the belt loop folder that came with the coverstitch.

For the first attempt, I used the foot that the instructions recommend.  Yes, I read the instructions this time! And, to make it easier to analyze, I chose contrasting thread.  The results were less than wonderful so I thought I’d switch to the binder foot.

The binder foot has a guide along the edge that keeps the fabric aligned.  It didn’t make any difference.  Practicing did.

Now, I don’t know that you have to have one of these folders to make belt loops. You could pre-press the strip and then send it through the machine. The folder just makes it a little easier. I do like this attachment and I am looking forward to sewing another pair of jeans.

A few days ago, I went through some stored sewing patterns that I keep separate from my other patterns. In this group are patterns (mostly vintage) that, for one reason or another, I likely will not use but don’t want to get rid of. Anyway, this 1952 McCall’s dress pattern, a gift from my mother, was tucked in with the apron patterns. It is my size! Coming into Autumn, this dress may not be seasonable but I think it is next in line.