Number 15 from the denim roll is slowing coming along. I’d traced the pattern and cut the denim last weekend. It sat by the machines, untouched, all week. This was after spending my sewing time the previous week pulling shirt and t-shirt patterns out of the file and comparing them to my BML (Bernina My Label) patterns. The comparisons made me understand why I bothered with BML. Many women that sew require a FBA (full bust adjustment). Well, I need a FBA too. However, my FBA is a full belly adjustment. To have a shirt fit, I have to do a full belly adjustment along with changing the sleeve length and shortening the shoulder to underarm distance. In addition, I often add length to the hem. A longer hem is a generally a preference and not a fitting matter.
Usually, I just straighten out the side seams and that will give me the extra fabric I need. The sleeve length is easy too – just a horizontal tuck in the sleeve pattern. More tucks for the front and back armholes and the sleeve cap. Not a big deal. Nevertheless, none of the new patterns I looked at were compelling enough to get me to make the necessary changes. Each time the overlapped patterns showed me what needed to be done, I simply folded the patterns and put them back into their respective envelopes.
Discouraged, I took myself to the San Marcos PremiumOutlets. I visited several stores and tried on many shirts. I came away with a new pair of shoes, a wallet and a renewed understanding of why I sew my own clothes.
I finally know what I have to do to a pants pattern to get it to fit. I want that same confidence with the shirts I produce. I have sewn several shirts that fit and I wear them often, but from my jeans sewing experience, I know that sewing one after another can work out my fitting issues.
While I’m getting my mind set to tackle shirts/tops, I have been sewing albeit at a sluggish pace. The Ottobre Every-Woman’s Pant (05-2008-16) is nearly complete. I added some back pockets (from Lekala 5742) and deleted the front waistband extension. Initially, I had included the extension but it just looked weird.
The waistband is yet to be finished: topstitching, belt loops, button/buttonhole and rivets.